Sometimes discovering a wine region requires a plane ticket, winding roads through vineyards and a long weekend somewhere in rural Italy. Other times, it starts with a few bottles delivered to your doorstep and a very well-executed online tasting.

 That’s how I ended up — at least mentally — in Oltrepò Pavese, the hilly region between Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna that few people outside Italy talk about, despite being one of the world’s largest Pinot Noir-growing areas.

The tasting hosted by Torrevilla felt less like a classic winery presentation and more like a liquid invitation to travel. As glasses filled with traditional method sparkling wines, Riesling and Pinot Noir, the people behind the project spoke about limestone soils, dramatic day-night temperature shifts, hillside vineyards and their almost obsessive focus on Pinot Noir.

By the end of it, I wasn’t just curious about the wines — I wanted to see the region itself.

Italy’s Pinot Noir territory nobody talks about

Oltrepò Pavese has an unusual identity for an Italian wine region. While geographically part of Lombardy, its wine culture feels closer to Central Europe than to the stereotypical sun-soaked image of southern Italy.

Locals proudly point out that the region sits on the 45th parallel north — the same latitude as Burgundy, Bordeaux and Oregon wine country — and they firmly believe this is one of the reasons Pinot Noir performs so well here.

And the numbers are impressive. Oltrepò Pavese ranks among the world’s major Pinot Noir territories, while Torrevilla itself is a historic cooperative founded in 1907, currently bringing together around 200 growers across 500 hectares of vineyards.

What makes the project particularly interesting is the level of detail behind it. Together with the University of Milan, the winery spent nearly a decade studying the terroir: soils, altitude, vineyard exposure and climatic conditions were mapped and integrated into a GIS system to better understand which plots perform best for each wine style.

It sounds highly technical — but in the glass, the result is straightforward: wines with clarity, precision and remarkably good value.

Traditional method sparkling wines without Champagne prices

The biggest surprise of the tasting was undoubtedly the sparkling wines.

In recent years, traditional method sparkling wine has increasingly become associated with premium pricing. Champagne prices continue to rise, and even many Italian alternatives now position themselves firmly in the luxury segment.

Oltrepò Pavese still seems to embrace a more refreshing philosophy: wine should remain pleasurable, accessible and easy to open on an ordinary evening.

The first wine we tasted was a non-vintage Brut Metodo Classico made from Pinot Noir. Aromatically, it delivered everything you want from a well-made sparkling wine: delicate red berries, fresh cherries, citrus peel, subtle bread notes and a chalky mineral edge. On the palate it was crisp, energetic and vibrant. Then came the detail that completely changed the perspective: the ex-works price was around €8. Eight euros for a traditional method sparkling wine with secondary fermentation in bottle and extended lees contact. That kind of affordable luxury is becoming increasingly rare.

The Extra Brut that stayed with me

My personal highlight was the 2022 Extra Brut sourced from vineyards in Borgo Priolo, at roughly 300 meters altitude. The mousse was fine and elegant, the wine more restrained and precise than the Brut. Raspberry, cranberry and pink grapefruit notes layered over fresh pastry aromas, all supported by a distinct mineral backbone. It felt polished without becoming overly ambitious — the kind of sparkling wine that works equally well as an aperitif or at the table. And once again, the pricing felt almost surreal in today’s market: approximately €9.5 ex works.

Not surprisingly, the region is now pushing for stronger recognition of its sparkling wine identity through the “Classese” designation, a category intended to define stricter production and ageing standards for local Metodo Classico wines.

Riesling, Pinot Noir and wines that don’t try too hard

The tasting continued with an Italian Riesling that was floral, generous and extremely drinkable: ripe peach, linden blossom and yellow fruit, balanced by freshness and discreet minerality.

Then came the still Pinot Noir — probably the most honest wine of the lineup. Juicy red cherry and sour cherry fruit, soft tannins and a chalky undertone that constantly reminded you of the limestone-heavy soils discussed throughout the presentation.

 What I appreciated most was that it didn’t try to imitate Burgundy. It wasn’t chasing grandeur or complexity at all costs. It simply felt authentic, balanced and genuinely enjoyable to drink.

A region now firmly on my travel list

Perhaps that is exactly what makes Oltrepò Pavese so appealing.

It doesn’t feel overly polished or designed for wine tourism spectacle. There’s no inflated mythology, no impossible pricing and no sense that everything exists purely for Instagram aesthetics.

Instead, there are excellent wines, beautiful vineyard landscapes and a wine culture that still feels grounded in everyday life.

 And if an online tasting can communicate a region’s personality this clearly, chances are the real place is worth the trip.

]]> https://www.dianapavelescu.ro/en/sicily-the-laboratory-of-the-future-sustainability-native-grapes-wines-that-defy-time/ Wed, 10 Dec 2025 12:05:03 +0000 https://www.dianapavelescu.ro/?p=3581

The November light in Sicily has little in common with the blaze of summer. It’s softer, rounder, yet carries the quiet assurance of a place that has watched centuries pass. It settles on old facades, hidden courtyards and sun-worn stone as if continuing a conversation begun long before us. Palermo felt unusually gentle that week — almost summery, wrapped in warm air, clear skies and a golden glow that gave the city the illusion of a lingering September. No rain, no chill, none of the grey we associate with November back home. Everything moved at an easy, sunlit rhythm, as if the city were preparing us, almost imperceptibly, for what we were about to taste.

In the heart of the city, Palazzo Branciforte opened its doors to the encounters that would frame the story of modern Sicily. A Renaissance palace with the austere nobility of its former centuries, now reborn as a cultural space, it proved the perfect setting to understand an island in the midst of redefining itself. Within its cool rooms and high ceilings, Sicily began to reveal its new voice.

Sicily Between Tradition and Transformation — From Terroir to Responsibility

Today, Sicily is one of Italy’s largest and most dynamic appellations, a viticultural mosaic where tradition alone is no longer enough. Climate change isn’t an abstract notion here — it is a daily reality: rising temperatures, persistent drought, scorching summers, pressure on soils, pressure on people.

DOC Sicilia chose not to respond with nostalgia but with strategy. And that strategy has a name: SOStain, the Sicilian sustainability foundation reshaping the island’s entire approach to viticulture — from integrated and organic agriculture to reduced water and energy use, soil protection, full traceability and a strong return to biodiversity.

After the symposium, over a quiet glass of wine, Antonio Rallo — president of the Consortium and owner of Donnafugata — explained to me with disarming clarity that SOStain is not a marketing slogan but Sicily’s survival manual. The way he spoke about soil, water and vine betrayed the responsibility of someone who knows that the future of wine begins with small gestures, repeated patiently over years. For him, sustainability isn’t a trend — it is a lifeline.

And here lies the surprise: Sicily doesn’t simply want to remain relevant.
It wants to become a global model of sustainability, despite the challenges.

The Three Pillars of the Sicilian Temple: Lucido, Grillo, Nero d’Avola

The first masterclass explored foundations — what truly defines Sicily at its core. The three grapes in focus — Catarratto (Lucido), Grillo and Nero d’Avola — felt like essential chapters of the island’s identity, reinterpreted through a modern lens.

Lucido (Catarratto)
Long considered a workhorse variety, it appeared here as a revelation. High-altitude Lucido shows a brightness that evokes cool mornings rather than southern heat: notes of pink grapefruit, green apple, white peach and a delicate marine salinity. In versions aged on fine lees, the texture deepens, gaining a quiet elegance that needs no showmanship. A deeply underestimated grape with remarkable potential.

Grillo
If Lucido is tradition, Grillo is freedom. A chameleon of a grape, capable of swinging between tropical warmth and saline, zesty freshness depending on where and how it’s grown. In the glasses before us, Grillo moved from citrus-driven verticality to richer, more exotic expressions. A versatile grape, perfectly tuned to the needs of a changing climate.

Nero d’Avola
The undisputed monarch of Sicilian reds. Here, it combined blackberries, cherries and subtle spice with surprising freshness and silky tannins. Nero d’Avola is no longer the heavy, rustic red of decades past — it has become a refined, altitude-friendly wine that keeps its soul while evolving in style.

Hidden Treasures: Inzolia, Zibibbo, Frappato, Perricone

The second masterclass felt like the poetic counterpoint to the first — a deep dive into the island’s quiet, unexpected diversity.

Inzolia
Graceful, calm, understated. Citrus, almond, mango and a faint herbal whisper. A sunlit grape, but never exuberant — always balanced.

Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria)
The scent of eternal summer: white peach, jasmine, pineapple — yet surprisingly crisp and dry on the palate. The room softened noticeably with this wine; it’s hard not to smile when Zibibbo is done well.

Frappato
Playful, ruby-red, aromatic. Strawberries, raspberries, violets. Whisper-light tannins. The kind of red you drink chilled, fast, and cheerfully — more terrace happiness than classroom discipline.

Perricone
A rediscovered native, with firm tannins, wild herbs, pink peppercorn and dark fruit. It brought welcome depth to the line-up — a reminder that Sicily is not only pleasure, but also gravitas.

Sicily’s Tomorrow Is Being Written Today

The masterclasses were more than tastings; they were lessons in adaptation, identity and evolution. Inside the cool rooms of Palazzo Branciforte, I understood why Sicily is not merely an island of the past — it is an island of the future.

Sicilian wines are no longer “wines of the sun.”
They are wines of altitude, of precision, of vision.

Lucido transforms into a mineral, crystalline white.
Grillo rises as the island’s modern superstar.
Nero d’Avola becomes elegance rather than power.
Inzolia, Zibibbo, Frappato, Perricone — each finds its new voice in a Sicily reinventing itself.

And behind all these wines lies a shared philosophy:
sustainability isn’t a trend; it’s the only way forward.

When I stepped out of the palazzo, the November light still lingered on the city, and the aroma of freshly tasted wines clung softly to the air. That’s when I understood the true allure of Sicily: it is not an island living in the shadow of its glorious past, but one entirely committed to the present it is building — a present more daring than many wine regions in the world.

Sicily is not reinventing itself. Sicily is evolving — and inviting us to witness its future.

Guadalajara – The Cultural Heartbeat of Jalisco

The journey begins in Guadalajara, a city where tradition and modernity dance in perfect harmony. With its baroque architecture, colorful markets, and the ever-present sound of mariachi, Guadalajara embodies Mexico’s generous soul.

Our first evening began with a welcome cocktail at the Governor’s Residence — a majestic colonial palace filled with cultural artifacts and murals narrating Jalisco’s history. In its vast inner courtyard, under the soft glow of lanterns, we were welcomed with local delicacies and our first sips of tequila — the ideal prologue to understanding this land of warmth and craftsmanship.

Valle del Tequila – A UNESCO Heritage of Spirit and Soil

An hour away from Guadalajara, the landscape opens into an amphitheater of bluish hills covered in agave. This is Paisaje Agavero y Valle del Tequila, recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

The town of Tequila, with its cobbled streets, colonial houses and historic distilleries, offers a complete immersion into the universe of Mexico’s national drink. Each distillery has its own story – some preserve traditional methods using stone ovens and tahona wheels pulled by mules, while others impress with contemporary technology and interactive tours.

The route includes the towns of Amatitán, El Arenal, Magdalena, Ahualulco de Mercado, Etzatlán and Teuchitlán, each with a distinct identity. In Teuchitlán lies the Guachimontones Archaeological Zone, a unique circular complex and proof of a pre-Hispanic civilization that first cultivated the agave plant.

Beyond tastings, the region offers authentic gastronomy in restaurants such as La Cueva de Don Cenobio and La Antigua Casona, and accommodation experiences in historical haciendas like Hacienda El Carmen and Solar de las Ánimas.

New tourism projects announced for 2026 – including the La Familia Rivera Trail in Teuchitlán and My Quetzal Trail in Amatitán – will further enrich the experience with themed tours, mixology, gastronomy and outdoor adventure.

Los Altos del Tequila – Where Tradition Meets Elegance

To the northeast, at altitudes above 1,500 meters, lies Los Altos de Jalisco – a region known for its elegant tequilas with floral aromas and a silky texture. The red, iron-rich soil and cooler climate define the distinct style of tequilas produced here, and locals proudly call it “the land with a soul.”

The Los Altos del Tequila Route crosses the towns of Arandas, Atotonilco el Alto, Tepatitlán de Morelos, Ayotlán, Acatic and San Ignacio Cerro Gordo – forming a triangle of distilleries, haciendas and charro traditions, Mexico’s national equestrian heritage.

Distillery tours such as Tequila Don Julio (Atotonilco el Alto), Campo Azul (Jesús María) and San Matías (Acatic) offer visitors a complete experience – from walking through agave fields to guided tastings and farm-to-table gastronomic pairings.

Culinary offerings here are equally refined, from Bramido and Casa Trujillo in Tepatitlán to La Regina 1904 in Arandas. The local cuisine blends terroir ingredients – corn, beans, beef and artisanal cheeses – with tequila or raicilla pairings, creating a contemporary reinterpretation of tradition.

Haciendas transformed into boutique hotels, such as Hacienda Vieja (Arandas) or Casa Naranjos (Tepatitlán), offer colonial charm and modern comfort, ideal for cultural and gastronomic tourism.

Raicilla – The Hidden Gem of Jalisco

Beyond tequila, Jalisco brings another spirit into the spotlight: Raicilla, a distillate with its own Denomination of Origin. Produced mainly in the coastal and mountain regions, Raicilla embodies a 300-year-old artisanal tradition.

Made from various species of agave, this handcrafted spirit combines ancestral methods – roasting the agave hearts in clay ovens, natural fermentation, and distillation in copper or clay stills. Raicilla has a surprising aromatic profile, with earthy, wild herb and tropical fruit notes, and a delicate mineral finish.

The recognition of its Denomination of Origin in 2019 has brought Raicilla international attention, while the Ruta de la Raicilla and Ruta Costalegre offer visitors the opportunity to discover the small producers who keep this ancient craft alive.

Puerto Vallarta – Where the Mountains Meet the Sea

The journey ends on the Pacific coast, in Puerto Vallarta, a destination that blends Mexican spirit with modern sophistication. The resort town is a meeting point between ocean, mountains and culture, offering a mix of fine dining, adventure tourism and authentic hospitality.

The beaches of Costalegre, from Chamela to Careyes, invite both relaxation and exploration – through fishing villages, nature reserves and beachfront bars where cocktails made with Tequila and Raicilla have become iconic.

A Journey Through the True Taste of Mexico

From Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco offers more than a route — it offers a revelation. Every city, every distillery, every dish tells a story about people, land, and legacy. Here, authenticity isn’t a marketing term; it’s a way of life. Jalisco is a place to taste, to listen, and to feel — because in Mexico, flavor always comes with a story.

A Spirit with a Secret Past

Raicilla was born in the 17th century, when local producers sought to escape the heavy colonial taxes on agave distillates. To disguise it, they called it “raicilla” — “little root” — implying it came from the plant’s roots rather than its heart.
But behind that humble name stood centuries of craft. Indigenous people of western Mexico had already been cooking agave (maguey) long before Spanish colonization. The word mezcal itself comes from the Nahuatl mexcalli — “cooked maguey” — a reminder that these spirits predate the modern state and even the nation itself.

In Jalisco, this ancestral knowledge merged with the distilling techniques brought from Asia through the Manila Galleon trade route (1565–1815). Ships sailing from the Philippines to Acapulco carried not only spices and silk, but also the art of distillation. When that knowledge reached the mountains of Jalisco, it fused with local tradition — and Raicilla was born.

From “Vino Mezcal” to Denomination of Origin

By the 1800s, agave spirits were known generically as vino mezcal, produced across a wide region that included Tequila.
Historical records show that by 1887, over 60 million agaves were being cultivated, yielding 100,000 barrels of mezcal wine.
But Raicilla took a different path. Produced in remote highlands and coastal villages, often outside the law, it remained a rural secret — passed from generation to generation in small tabernas.

It wasn’t until 2019 that Raicilla received its own Denomination of Origin (DO), covering 16 municipalities in Jalisco and one in Nayarit. After three centuries of hiding, the “little root” had finally earned its name in history.

The Taste of Place

Raicilla is more than a drink — it’s a conversation with the land.
Depending on where it’s made, its character shifts dramatically:

• Raicilla de la Sierra comes from the temperate, mineral-rich highlands around Mascota and San Sebastián del Oeste, made mostly from Agave maximiliana and inaequidens. These are floral, herbaceous, with crisp acidity — the mountain air bottled.
• Raicilla de la Costa is born in the warm, humid Pacific lowlands near El Tuito and Tomatlán, where Agave angustifolia and rhodacantha thrive. Here, the flavors are rounder, fruitier, with whispers of mango, sea breeze and smoke.

I still remember tasting a Sierra-style Raicilla in a small distillery Taberna Tres Gallos. It had notes of pine and citrus, with a faint trace of smoke and salt. There was something profoundly human in it — imperfect, alive, and honest.

Craft and Chemistry

Despite its rustic charm, Raicilla is a marvel of natural chemistry.
When agave piñas are roasted, their complex inulin break down into simple sugars; during fermentation, wild yeasts transform them into alcohols and aromatic esters; and distillation in clay or copper stills concentrates those volatile compounds into a rich, textured spirit.

Each stage adds complexity:

• Roasting creates caramelized, smoky notes.
• Fermentation yields fruit and spice aromas.
• Distillation refines texture and structure.

Most Raicillas are bottled between 40–50% ABV, unaged (joven) to preserve purity. Some are aged in oak barrels (reposado or añejo) or matured in glass (madurada en vidrio), softening the edges and introducing tones of vanilla, dried fruit and spice.

The Human Scale of Production

Unlike tequila, Raicilla remains proudly artisanal.
There are only about 82 registered distilleries, producing roughly 650,000 liters per year — a fraction of the industrial tequila output. The ecosystem is intimate: farmers, distillers and families working side by side, cultivating around 1,100 hectares of agave.

About 70% of Raicilla comes from Agave maximiliana, a species that grows wild on the steep slopes of the Sierra Madre Occidental. Harvesting it is not industrial — it’s personal. Each plant matures for 8 to 12 years before it’s cut, roasted in earthen ovens, and fermented under open skies.

It’s this connection to time and place that gives Raicilla its soul. You can taste the patience, the weather, the altitude.

Tasting Raicilla: A Personal Moment

Due to Spirits Selection by CMB, surrounded by experts from all over the world, I found myself in front of a glass that defied expectations. Unlike tequila’s clean precision or mezcal’s smoky intensity, Raicilla seemed wilder — its aromas unfolding slowly, unpredictably. Notes of wild herbs, citrus peel, sun-warmed earth, and a faint saltiness that lingered on the palate. It reminded me of why we travel for taste: to find authenticity. Raicilla isn’t polished; it’s pure. It speaks of mountains, fire, and people who never stopped believing that tradition has a place in modernity.

From Hidden Past to Bright Future

Today, Raicilla stands proudly alongside tequila and mezcal as one of Mexico’s great spirits.
The Ruta de la Raicilla, launched by the Jalisco Tourism Board, invites travelers to visit its tabernas, meet distillers, and experience the landscape behind each bottle — mountains shrouded in mist, clay ovens smoldering with agave fibers, and families who turn nature into culture.

For me, Raicilla is more than a rediscovery — it’s a reminder.
That authenticity survives when people care.
That every sip can carry centuries of memory.
And that sometimes, the smallest roots grow into the strongest traditions.

Spirits Selection by CMB 2025: Between Competition and Discovery

The town of Tequila in Mexico is not only a place with an emblematic name, but also a symbol of a tradition that has conquered the world. This September, it hosted the 27th edition of the Spirits Selection by Concours Mondial de Bruxelles – one of the most prestigious international competitions dedicated to spirits.

Over the course of three days, 140 judges from 45 countries embarked on a true marathon of diversity: 2,598 entries, representing 70 countries and divided into 64 categories, including six new ones dedicated to lesser-known traditional spirits – from India’s Mahua to Mexico’s Sotol and Cyprus’ Zivania. These numbers illustrate the globalization of spirits, but the experience of judging goes far beyond statistics.

Day One – Grapes, Terroir, and Heritage

My panel was made up of five members – four women and one man, a colleague from Denmark who specializes mainly in sugarcane-based distillates. We were surprised to discover that, despite our different cultural backgrounds and professional experiences, our preferences often aligned.

The first day focused on grape-based spirits: Pisco from Peru and Chile, Rakija from Bulgaria, Unaged Grappa from Italy, and finally, the elegance of a refined Cognac from France. It was a day where terroir spoke powerfully, with each glass carrying traditions that span centuries.

Day Two – From Mysterious Gins to No/Lo Aperitifs

The second day took us on a whirlwind tour around the world. We began with citrus-flavored gins, difficult to pinpoint – they could have originated anywhere. We then moved on to Mezcal, the distinctly Mexican spirit with smoky character, before engaging in lively debates over the provenance of Agricultural & Cane Juice Rhum. Was it Madeira, the Caribbean, or another exotic country? Impossible to say with certainty.

Perhaps the most challenging session of the day was the No/Lo aperitifs. A boundless category, where producers’ creativity was reflected in vibrant colors, unexpected aromas, and unconventional styles. We ended the evening with Kaolang, a Taiwanese Baijiu that impressed us with its intensity and complexity.

Day Three – Global Whisky and Herbal Elixirs

The final day was once again an exotic journey. We began with a World Blended Whisky, moved on to a French Single Malt, and then discovered, to our delight, Slivovitz – the famous plum spirit, pronounced exactly as it is written.

This was followed by a series of sweet and intensely aromatic herbal liqueurs – mint, eucalyptus, Mediterranean herbs – reminiscent of medicinal tonics, both invigorating and fragrant. The competition closed in spectacular fashion with a Sauce Aroma Baijiu, an authentic expression of Chinese tradition.

Beyond Tasting – The Spirit of the Competition

What makes Spirits Selection unique is not only the diversity or quality of the entries, but also the working atmosphere: carefully calibrated sessions, impeccable organization, and judging panels designed to reflect global diversity. Every sample is blind-tasted with rigor and attention, ensuring that the medals awarded truly stand as benchmarks of quality.

But the competition also offers producers a powerful tool for promotion and visibility. Winning a medal here means more than professional recognition: it brings tangible market advantages – increased trust among distributors, access to new export markets, international media exposure, and, often, a boost in sales.

In addition, Spirits Selection serves as a genuine networking platform. Producers connect with experts, communicators, importers, and retailers, while their stories travel further through the voices of judges and organizers. The competition builds bridges between cultures and markets, between tradition and innovation.

A Global Showcase for Tradition and Innovation

Ultimately, what remains is not just the tasting notes, but the image of a competition that brings together worlds, continents, and cultures in a single place. Spirits Selection by CMB is more than a medal podium: it is a stage where tradition meets innovation, where small and large producers alike join in a shared dialogue.

In Tequila, Mexico, I rediscovered not only the strength of an emblematic drink, but also the beauty of an international community of professionals united by the same passion. I left with the feeling that every glass we tasted was, in fact, a story told in the universal language of spirits.

Still, what makes each trip here truly special are the people. Over the years, my fellow judges—coming from every corner of the world—have become like a family. In fact, I often see them more than my own relatives. With them I share not just wines and tastings, but also small urban adventures, long walks, late-night conversations, and the simple joy of being together.

This year, before dinner, we began with something quite unexpected for Berlin: a visit to a sake brewery. Marie, a dear friend and sake educator at WSET, welcomed us into a newly opened brewhouse next to a cozy sake bar. There we met the producer himself, who walked us through each step of the process—faithful to Japanese tradition but using rice imported from Italy by his own family. We tasted several styles of sake, including a sparkling one, and for a moment stepped into a completely different world—delicate, aromatic, and just as complex as wine. It was the perfect prelude to what would become a memorable evening.

For several years now, it has become our tradition to close one of the competition days with a special dinner in a surprising location. In 2025, our choice was Merold, a restaurant in East Berlin. Getting there is a small adventure in itself: the competition takes place in the west of the city, near Lake Tegel, so the journey by U-Bahn to the center can take almost an hour. Sometimes we go by bike, other times we stroll along the quiet lakeside paths, but the truth is, in Berlin even the journey feels like part of the experience.

At Merold, a creative and daring menu was waiting for us. Pairing a dinner for a table full of wine judges is never an easy task, but the team rose to the challenge. Only one natural wine sparked a heated discussion—the kind of wine that could easily mislead a newcomer into thinking it represents the whole category.

As for the dishes, they were unforgettable: radishes with yogurt and cheese, grilled cauliflower with oil and blackcurrants, shallots sautéed with garlic and dark flour, guinea fowl ravioli with bacon “orecchiette,” and finally, a refreshing dessert—gooseberry ice cream. Each course told its own story, each bite revealed a new layer.

And, as always, I realized that the real beauty of these evenings lies not only in the food or the wines, but in the people gathered around the table. In the laughter that comes out of nowhere, in the memories shared, in the plans made for the future.

That, for me, is what Berlin truly means: beyond the competition, beyond the wines, it’s about the joy of reunion, the friendships that grow stronger every year, and the certainty that this city never lets you leave empty-handed. Each time, you take something with you—a story, a memory, a smile that lingers long after the plane or train has taken you away.

Berlin always has something special that draws you in and makes you want to return. It is a vibrant city where, alongside history and art, you also find one of the most important international wine competitions: the Berliner Wine Trophy, held twice a year. My first participation was in 2014, and since then I have grown, learned, and refined my skills, eventually becoming a team leader (panel chair), coordinating a tasting panel.

The competition itself consists of four days of intensive tastings, each organized into several series of wines. Every series shares a common theme: they may come from the same country, the same grape variety, or related varieties from different regions. This format allows you to quickly form an understanding of a vintage’s typicity or the evolving trends in wine styles.

A relevant example: all red wines from the 2024 vintage were fruit-forward, unoaked, and without barrel ageing – approachable, juicy, easy to pair, yet full of personality.

The Cuvée series, whether white or red, always presents a challenge. Guessing the country of origin is not easy, and that is what makes it exciting. In another series dedicated to Chardonnay, I bet on Eastern Europe – and was right: the wines came from Hungary.

Italy remains a reliable benchmark, a country you can always count on for diversity and quality. I “traveled” through its wines: from Sicily with Catarratto, to Piemonte with Arneis, through Friuli, Veneto, Soave, Marche, and Tuscany with Trebbiano (Turbiano), Ribolla Gialla, Garganega, and Verdicchio, and back to Sicily with Carricante. All displayed freshness, floral and fruity notes, and lively acidity – exactly what you want on a warm summer day.

A standout moment was the series dedicated to Cortese, a regal selection of Gavi – the perfect wine to enjoy by the sea. Among the white wines, the Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder) series from Germany deserves mention – a revelation for its personality and structure, despite being considered a neutral grape. It may seem rustic in its first year, but it evolves beautifully and reaches perfection after 3–4 years. Gold medals were awarded generously.

For the red wines, global trends were confirmed: intense fruit aromas, unoaked, elegant, and easy to drink. This is a style I personally prefer. The most spectacular was Tempranillo from 2024 and 2023, sometimes blended with Graciano or Garnacha. Italy and Spain were the stars of the competition.

There were also surprises: red wines from Cyprus, introduced by our Cypriot colleague. Indigenous varieties such as Yiannoudi, Ofthalmo, and Maratheftiko (vintages 2018–2022) impressed with aromas of dark fruits, aromatic herbs, and spices.

Participating in the Berliner Wine Trophy is always a valuable experience – not only for the wines tasted, but also for the people you meet and for seeing international trends confirmed. It was a true pleasure to work alongside my fellow panel members, whose professionalism, attention to detail, and collaborative spirit made every tasting both rigorous and enjoyable. I am also grateful to the organizers, who provided perfect conditions for evaluation and a welcoming environment for all participants. This experience reaffirmed that the success of a wine competition relies on a dedicated team and passionate people. The Berliner Wine Trophy remains a benchmark in the wine world, and the 2025 edition was no exception.

A Millennia-Old Wine Culture

Slovenia’s winemaking heritage goes back thousands of years. Viticulture has long been part of rural life, passed down through families on sun-drenched hillsides. Far from industrialized wine production, Slovenia has preserved a culture of hands-on, honest winemaking.

The tradition of fermenting white grapes with their skins – what we now call orange wine – was never completely lost here. In western regions like Vipava Valley and Goriška Brda, this technique was quietly kept alive, especially in family cellars, even when modern white wines dominated the global market.

Orange Wines: Between Memory and Modernity

So what exactly is orange wine? It’s a white wine fermented with its grape skins, much like a red. The result: a wine with amber hues, gentle tannins, and surprising aromatic complexity. Expect notes of dried apricots, tea, citrus peel, herbs, sometimes even a slight saltiness – all thanks to extended skin contact.

In Slovenia, orange wines are often made naturally: wild yeasts, minimal to no sulfites, and aging in clay amphorae, old barrels or concrete eggs. It’s a patient, minimalist approach – and one that yields wines full of personality, structure, and depth.

Indigenous Grapes and Diverse Terroirs

Slovenia’s true treasure lies in its native grape varieties, each tied deeply to place. In Vipava Valley, several standout grapes are commonly vinified with skin contact:

• Zelen – herbal, fresh, with crisp acidity and wild plant aromas,
• Rebula (Ribolla Gialla) – taut, mineral, with hints of almond, tea, and yellow fruits,
• Pinela – floral and silky, with subtle dried fruit and a gentle bitterness,
• Malvasia (Malvazija Istarska) – aromatic and rich, with notes of citrus, dried flowers, and saline minerality.

These varieties thrive in Vipava’s limestone and flysch soils, under the influence of the bora, a strong dry wind that reduces disease pressure and allows for organic and biodynamic farming.

Slovenia and the Natural Wine Movement

Slovenia officially stepped into the global spotlight in 2019 when it became the first country to feature orange wines at its national stand at ProWein Düsseldorf. But many producers had long been known among sommeliers and natural wine lovers across Europe, the US and Japan.

Today, Slovenian orange wines feature prominently at festivals like RAW Wine and Orange Wine Festival (Izola). They appear on lists at Michelin-starred restaurants and natural wine bars worldwide. Cradled in a tradition of low-intervention winemaking, these wines are bold, sincere and rooted in place.

✨ A Culture of Sincerity – And Stories Yet to Be Told

What’s remarkable about Slovenia is not just the quality of its wines, but the honesty behind them. There is no smoke and mirrors here – just nature, time, and winemakers who trust both.

Each bottle is a quiet but powerful expression of terroir, vintage, and intention. And the story doesn’t end here. In the next articles in this series, we’ll dive deeper – winery by winery, grape by grape, voice by voice. The map of orange wines is just beginning to take shape – and Slovenia is right at its center.

Turkey is a tourist destination that offers an impressive variety of experiences to suit all tastes. Here you can find practically anything you can imagine: https://goturkiye.com. After spending several days in Istanbul, we set off on the wine route in Thrace, the European part of Turkey, along the Sea of Marmara, towards new tourist destinations that necessarily include wine. Why? To discover how you can combine a passion for wine with new places to explore, for example, on a vacation or a city break where you want to be surprised by the local flavours. Our first stop was in the Tekirdag area.

Badur Winery was our first stop, a small family-run winery covering 1 hectare, run by a young team consisting of a chemical engineer and an archaeologist. The winery is still under construction and released its first wine in 2019, now reaching a production of 8,000 bottles per year. It is located in an area with sandy-clay soil and a Mediterranean climate with mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers, with high temperatures tempered by the influence of the Sea of Marmara. The owners combine their passion for wine with archaeology, as the winery hosts a small museum with artifacts found in the area, proving that winemaking has been a tradition here for millennias. Most of the planted varieties are red, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, with a few rows of Sauvignon Blanc newly planted this year.

As a result, we tasted a rosé wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon, produced using the saignée method, which means that immediately after crushing, 20-30% of the clear must was taken from the fresh mash to be fermented separately, resulting in this wine. A fresh wine from 2023, dry with high alcohol balanced by a robust structure. This was followed by a series of three blends made from equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The first two from 2020 differed in their maturation location, the first aged for 4 months in American oak barrels, 30% of which were new, and the second in French oak, both with firm tannins, adhering to the gums and flavors dominated by coconut and vanilla, depending on the wood’s origin, with black fruits, currants, and blackberries struggling to emerge. The last one from 2022, clearly a warmer year, with more fruit, more balanced, with ripe fruits, black cherries, and plums with licorice notes enhancing a strong, persistent structure. Freshly bottled, three months before we tasted it, promising to evolve beautifully in the bottle. A natural, good evolution of the winemaking style. After taking a look at the vineyard, we headed to our next destination.

Barbare Winery & Vineyards – a winery with a stunning location atop a hill, part of the high shore of the Sea of Marmara. Covering 37 hectares and producing 300,000 bottles annually, it is a family-run business dedicated to hospitality, featuring a hotel and restaurant with an extraordinary view, managed by the owner’s daughter, Dennis Topsakal. The vineyard was established in the 2000s, with a preference for international varieties and a French consultant. The vineyard is composed of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc for red grapes, with plans to plant Malbec in the future, and Sauvignon Blanc already in place for whites, with Vermentino planned for the future. The harvest varies from 100,000 to 200,000 liters depending on the year’s conditions. Their affinity for France and its wines is evident in their ownership of a 17-hectare winery in Provence and their French consultant. Generally, the wines are fermented and left on the skins for about 6-7 months for intense extraction of flavor and color, then matured for 15 to 18 months in barrels, followed by bottle aging, so a red wine does not leave the winery before 4-5 years and usually has great aging potential.

We tasted the 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, spontaneously fermented, fresh and pleasant, and a 2022 Grenache rosé followed by a series of four red wines, each from a different vintage between 2016 and 2019, in different blends. The standout was “Ambiance,” a Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre blend that impressed with its balance and fruitiness. The dishes served were based on local cuisine with a modern twist. I’d say they still need to work on pairings and developing wines that truly represent them.

Exhausted after a long drive and two wineries, we stayed at a seaside resort preparing for the upcoming season, Pia Mare Hotel & Resort. I liked the bungalows spread along the sea and my enormous room with a view of the inner garden with the sea in the background through the trees. It reminded me a bit of Neptun and the villas there. The highlight of the evening was dinner, of course, prepared by a chef at the resort’s “Fume” restaurant, worthy of Michelin stars, a delight. We started with a welcome drink of Champagne to celebrate the event, followed by a perfect pairing with various wines. We began with Chateau Murou Semillon 2019, rounded with ripe fruits, a full body, and medium acidity paired with meze, crostini with avocado and shrimp, salmon, and labneh. Next was the 2021 Papaskarasi Buyulubag, a fresh red wine with high acidity, ripe, even dried fruits, figs, black cherries, raisins, and cranberries, a combination of red and black fruits paired with celery tartare, spinach, and parmesan with a lemon-based reduction. Karasi means black, so anything ending with this word yields red wines. The following Cabernet Sauvignon Sari Vadi, a very balanced wine with green pepper and black fruit aromas, ripe tannins, and serious persistence, had a happy pairing with mushroom risotto, a kind of couscous risotto, with which it matched perfectly. For the main course, the oven-roasted goat with cauliflower puree was sensational alongside Caledoc, a variety from southern France, a cross between Grenache and Malbec. A juicy, fruity, meaty wine with concentrated aromas, a velvety structure, and long-lasting persistence. The dessert of crunchy pumpkin with milk ice cream marked the beginning of the end of this Pantagruelian dinner, which we concluded with five-year-aged Horincă from Stefan Gogota’s Horincia, local Raki, and an international GT around the campfire on the terrace. A feast and a memorable party that made the morning not so clear. Setting off on a longer journey, we had time to recover before the next winery. We stopped somewhere in the mountains for tea and a breath of fresh air, and with renewed energy, we reached our next destination.

Melen Vineyards, covering 20 hectares on the high shore of the Marmara Sea at an altitude of 250-300m near Canakkale, is situated in the courtyard of a former Greek monastery, Manastir Bagevi, on volcanic soil composed of various layers of granite, schist, and even clay. The southwest-facing plantations are exposed to winds coming from the sea, which protect the vines from humidity but can sometimes be quite strong. We are practically in an area colonized by ancient Greeks who likely influenced viticulture here, and the emblem on the amphorae found in the area is the winery’s symbol. This family business, driven by a lot of passion, is evident in how the owner, Cem, speaks about his wines.

We started with a tasting of 5 wines to get familiar with the winery’s specific style. Most of the cultivated varieties are indigenous, and the first wine we tasted is called Hypatia, named after the female mathematician from 4th century Alexandria, in her honor. The 2022 vintage is a blend of 70% Bornova Misketi and 30% Sauvignon Blanc. Both varieties were vinified separately with spontaneous fermentation after 4-5 days of pellicular maceration at 4-5°C, during which a carbonic maceration also began, followed by 3-4 months on lees, which is noticeable in the initial aromas of dough, bread, apricot, grapefruit, and lime, all set on a crisp acidity with a certain salty minerality and a full, savory body.

The second wine, a 2022 vintage Papazkarasi, is an ancient variety believed to have been present since the Byzantine Empire and originating from this region. Controlled temperature fermentation for 25 days with maceration but without barrel aging developed aromas of cherries and cranberries with smoky notes, high acidity, and intense tannins, a still young wine with a long aging potential. Next was the 2021 Karalahna, fermented for a month at 22-25°C for a high extraction of aromas, color, and tannins, which we find in the wine along with riper fruits compared to 2022; besides blackberries, we have black olives on a structure with everything elevated—alcohol, tannins, acidity.

The winery’s signature, as the producer told us, is this high extraction of color, aromas, and tannins, which admittedly would pair well with game and heavy sauces, but it’s a trend that might pass. The first international variety, Merlot Reserve 2016, already an evolved, jammy wine from a low-yield vineyard of 4000l/ha with black fruits, plums, currants, and high tannins balanced by a juicy structure.

We concluded the tasting grandiosely with a special wine from the cellar, one from 1955, which our host takes great care of because it is special. Another bottle was used when he proposed to his now-wife, and one of their children, who translated for us during the tasting, is 24 years old. So you can imagine the importance of this wine, which is still holding up well at 69 years old! A rare aromatic complexity with intense aromas of caramel, burnt sugar cream, dried fruits, figs, apricots, walnuts, and almonds supported by lively acidity, a wine full of life that will be around for many more years. In fact, 1955 was the last vintage of the winery that operated here before.

After the tasting and before lunch, we took a break to walk through the vineyard and the monastery courtyard to learn some interesting things. The monastery also functioned as a school in the area, having its own vineyard and garden, practically self-sufficient. We found bay trees, old Greek tiles, and traces of wild boar in the garden, a fairytale place worth visiting.

So, we returned refreshed and hungry to start the second part, this time pairing wine with local food, a service that the winery offers to all visitors. We started again with a golden 2017 Riesling with Sauvignon Blanc, with citrus aromas and an oily, full structure with a salty flavor and medium acidity, perfectly paired with salad, vine leaf sarma, artichokes with beans, and salmon on the side, with the 2023 Papazkarasi rosé, branded Kiz Kulesi, as an alternative, with strawberry and raspberry aromas, delicate and elegant.

A kind of flatter ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta, seasoned with roasted nuts and olive oil, paired very well with the next wine, another indigenous variety, Okuzgozu 2022, branded Ganahora, full of red fruits, plums, cranberries, pomegranate with an elegant structure, full of freshness.

The main course was oven-roasted goat with spices in two versions, one boiled, reminiscent of lamb stew with many green herbs, and the other well-seasoned roast with local couscous. Both melted in your mouth and were accompanied by a 2017 Shiraz with a structure of firm tannins, slightly salty, supported by ripe and dried fruits, blackberries, raisins, figs with a peppery finish, simply divine. I practically celebrated Easter all week with this trip.

No meal here ends without dessert! Hamburg Misketi 2006 Granahora, a fortified wine, perfectly complemented the milk pudding with mulberry syrup from the tree in the garden.

It was the warmest encounter, full of emotion, where we truly felt important and welcomed.

Chateau Gali was our next stop, a bit further south of Canakkale, near the entrance to the Dardanelles Strait. This is a larger winery, covering 30 hectares, located on the seaside at an altitude of 220 meters on limestone soil, currently producing 30,000 bottles annually. However, it is set to develop further, as the coastal defence bunkers built during World War II, which are part of the winery’s property, are planned to be converted into accommodation spaces. Visiting them, I must say, despite being underground, the ventilation is fantastic.

The planted varieties here are exclusively international, with a French consultant, and the owner wanted a Bordeaux-style chateau. We started with a 2020 Viognier, mineral and salty, with aromas of apricots and peaches and a well-defined structure. Also from 2020, a Merlot with Cabernet Franc in equal proportions, juicy and full of fruit, without barrel aging, with the same characteristic sapidity of the area. The star of the tasting was a 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc blend, featuring ripe fruits, blackberries, plums, black currants, notes of ink, bell pepper, tomato leaves, and mint, highlighted by a well-defined structure with high, ripe tannins and a prolonged finish. The 2016 Merlot revealed the aging potential of the winery’s wines, in an amazing location with an extraordinary view of the strait.

Enjoying the winery visits so much, we decided to save the visit to Troy for next time, along with crossing the bridge built by the South Koreans over the Dardanelles, and we headed relatively quickly to the next winery, where we would also spend the night: Asmadan Winery. Actually, the spa and hotel are called Bengodi, and the location and rooms were superb. High-ceilinged spaces of 5-8 meters, a place where you can breathe and savor the place through wine and food. We didn’t have much time to enjoy the rooms and relax in the comfort offered, as we quickly went down for tasting and dinner to learn more about the winery.

The vineyard was planted in 1998, but the current owners had their first harvest in 2018. The orientation of the plantations is northwest, at 500-600 meters altitude, exposed to the winds, and produces approximately 400,000 bottles annually. We tasted a 2022 Semillon from a 50-60-year-old plantation, fermented in oak barrels with batonnage, very creamy and mineral, with lots of citrus, especially lemon and lemon peel. Next was a 2022 Fumé Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc), fermented and aged for 7 months in 500-liter barrels, with the wood well-integrated, more felt in the structure, fresh and fine.

We then moved on to the next three red wines: a 2020 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Okuzgozu, and Bogazkere, dominated by red fruits, with notes of blood that envelop a structure with high alcohol and tannins, well-defined. Next was a 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Aegean coast, with intense aromas of black currants, blackberries, plums, and pepper, supporting a strong structure with high tannins that are starting to round out with bottle aging. The last one, a 2019 Syrah from another area with a continental climate, thus warm, moderated by the altitude of 900-950 meters from Deniz province, spent 12-13 months in second or third-use barrels, with warm aromas of ripe fruits on a vibrant and velvety structure. The tasting was accompanied by Csari cheeses, made locally by the same owners.

Between the tasting and preparing dinner, we visited the winery and the museum, which reviews the main stages this territory has gone through and evidence of viticulture, with two important complaints: first, that the Greeks did not bring viticulture to Romania, as they claim, and second, more importantly, that Malta is not on the map they drew. We were then pampered with a light gourmet dinner, as usual, consisting of beet carpaccio with goat cheese, oven-roasted lamb with chestnut puree and sauce, and a kind of pudding for dessert with cinnamon and chestnuts, which I tried to avoid after a whole week of feasting. It’s also important to mention the breakfast, which we had for the first time this trip, quite early, to end properly before heading to the airport.

I would conclude by saying that the promotion of Turkey by the tourism promotion agency, focused on wine tourism, is an immense benefit available to wineries offering most of these services. It is an integration into the historical tradition of the places.