Whenever things do not go as they should, the search for someone to blame begins. Producers did not mobilize in time. Authorities delayed procedures. Tenders were launched too late. Budgets are annual. Deadlines are strict. Each argument contains a measure of truth. And yet, if we look more closely, the problem is never purely administrative. The real issue is that we fail to function together.

Export is not an exercise in individual pride, nor is it a short sprint. It is a long-term construction. It requires consistency, trust, and collective accountability. Instead, in our sector, there is always someone convinced they can do better alone than through an associative structure. Perhaps the intentions are good. Perhaps the energy is genuine. But representing an entire industry cannot be done individually, under a private company, no matter how well intended the effort may be.

Romanian wine is not an isolated product. It is the image of a country. And an image cannot be renegotiated from one year to the next, depending on budgets or egos.

In 2017, at Vinexpo Bordeaux, Romania left behind an unpaid invoice and a bitter aftertaste. At the time, we said it was an accident, an unfortunate administrative decision, a lesson that would not be repeated. Nine years have passed. It is now 2026. We like to believe we have matured. And yet the vulnerabilities remain the same. Budgetary rigidity, public procurement procedures, fiscal constraints are invoked. All of them are real and well known. Precisely for that reason, they should be integrated into a stable, predictable mechanism. If the wine sector is considered strategic, then external promotion cannot depend on improvisation or fragile coordination between institutions and producers.

But the sector itself is not without responsibility. Associations are not sufficiently consolidated, producers struggle to formulate a coherent common strategy, and mutual trust remains limited. Individual agendas prevail, and the collective reputation ultimately pays the price.

At Wine Paris, a stand is not merely an exhibition space. It is a statement. It is our business card. In an industry where perception carries enormous weight, the way you present yourself determines whether you are seen as a serious partner or an accidental presence. From a fiscal standpoint, budget differences may not seem dramatic. From an image standpoint, however, they can be decisive.

The uncomfortable reality is that the Romanian wine sector is smaller than it appears and more vulnerable than we like to admit. Around it lies fierce competition, saturated markets, pressure on pricing and positioning. Without a shared strategy and coherent institutional support, each producer remains alone in a disproportionate battle.

The state rightly says it needs concrete proposals from the sector. The sector, equally justified, says it needs predictability and genuine support. Between these two expectations, time passes and opportunities are lost. This is not a matter of a single guilty party. It is a matter of collective maturity.

Romania’s representation at a fair such as Wine Paris cannot be left to chance, nor informally delegated to isolated initiatives, however well intentioned. A clear framework is needed, with transparent criteria and a mechanism that offers equal opportunities to both large and small producers. Political accountability is required, but so is internal cohesion. Otherwise, we will continue to repeat the same scenario: excitement before the fair, tension during organization, justifications afterward. And the image of Romanian wine will remain suspended between potential and reality.

Perhaps Wine Paris 2026 is not a failure, but another signal. A signal that we can no longer postpone the professionalization of our external representation. That we can no longer function in fragments. That we can no longer treat image as a detail. Because in the world of wine, image is the beginning of trust. And trust is hard to build and easy to lose.

The question is no longer who is to blame. The question is whether we will have the clarity to sit at the same table — producers, associations, authorities — and finally build something together.

The November light in Sicily has little in common with the blaze of summer. It’s softer, rounder, yet carries the quiet assurance of a place that has watched centuries pass. It settles on old facades, hidden courtyards and sun-worn stone as if continuing a conversation begun long before us. Palermo felt unusually gentle that week — almost summery, wrapped in warm air, clear skies and a golden glow that gave the city the illusion of a lingering September. No rain, no chill, none of the grey we associate with November back home. Everything moved at an easy, sunlit rhythm, as if the city were preparing us, almost imperceptibly, for what we were about to taste.

In the heart of the city, Palazzo Branciforte opened its doors to the encounters that would frame the story of modern Sicily. A Renaissance palace with the austere nobility of its former centuries, now reborn as a cultural space, it proved the perfect setting to understand an island in the midst of redefining itself. Within its cool rooms and high ceilings, Sicily began to reveal its new voice.

Sicily Between Tradition and Transformation — From Terroir to Responsibility

Today, Sicily is one of Italy’s largest and most dynamic appellations, a viticultural mosaic where tradition alone is no longer enough. Climate change isn’t an abstract notion here — it is a daily reality: rising temperatures, persistent drought, scorching summers, pressure on soils, pressure on people.

DOC Sicilia chose not to respond with nostalgia but with strategy. And that strategy has a name: SOStain, the Sicilian sustainability foundation reshaping the island’s entire approach to viticulture — from integrated and organic agriculture to reduced water and energy use, soil protection, full traceability and a strong return to biodiversity.

After the symposium, over a quiet glass of wine, Antonio Rallo — president of the Consortium and owner of Donnafugata — explained to me with disarming clarity that SOStain is not a marketing slogan but Sicily’s survival manual. The way he spoke about soil, water and vine betrayed the responsibility of someone who knows that the future of wine begins with small gestures, repeated patiently over years. For him, sustainability isn’t a trend — it is a lifeline.

And here lies the surprise: Sicily doesn’t simply want to remain relevant.
It wants to become a global model of sustainability, despite the challenges.

The Three Pillars of the Sicilian Temple: Lucido, Grillo, Nero d’Avola

The first masterclass explored foundations — what truly defines Sicily at its core. The three grapes in focus — Catarratto (Lucido), Grillo and Nero d’Avola — felt like essential chapters of the island’s identity, reinterpreted through a modern lens.

Lucido (Catarratto)
Long considered a workhorse variety, it appeared here as a revelation. High-altitude Lucido shows a brightness that evokes cool mornings rather than southern heat: notes of pink grapefruit, green apple, white peach and a delicate marine salinity. In versions aged on fine lees, the texture deepens, gaining a quiet elegance that needs no showmanship. A deeply underestimated grape with remarkable potential.

Grillo
If Lucido is tradition, Grillo is freedom. A chameleon of a grape, capable of swinging between tropical warmth and saline, zesty freshness depending on where and how it’s grown. In the glasses before us, Grillo moved from citrus-driven verticality to richer, more exotic expressions. A versatile grape, perfectly tuned to the needs of a changing climate.

Nero d’Avola
The undisputed monarch of Sicilian reds. Here, it combined blackberries, cherries and subtle spice with surprising freshness and silky tannins. Nero d’Avola is no longer the heavy, rustic red of decades past — it has become a refined, altitude-friendly wine that keeps its soul while evolving in style.

Hidden Treasures: Inzolia, Zibibbo, Frappato, Perricone

The second masterclass felt like the poetic counterpoint to the first — a deep dive into the island’s quiet, unexpected diversity.

Inzolia
Graceful, calm, understated. Citrus, almond, mango and a faint herbal whisper. A sunlit grape, but never exuberant — always balanced.

Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria)
The scent of eternal summer: white peach, jasmine, pineapple — yet surprisingly crisp and dry on the palate. The room softened noticeably with this wine; it’s hard not to smile when Zibibbo is done well.

Frappato
Playful, ruby-red, aromatic. Strawberries, raspberries, violets. Whisper-light tannins. The kind of red you drink chilled, fast, and cheerfully — more terrace happiness than classroom discipline.

Perricone
A rediscovered native, with firm tannins, wild herbs, pink peppercorn and dark fruit. It brought welcome depth to the line-up — a reminder that Sicily is not only pleasure, but also gravitas.

Sicily’s Tomorrow Is Being Written Today

The masterclasses were more than tastings; they were lessons in adaptation, identity and evolution. Inside the cool rooms of Palazzo Branciforte, I understood why Sicily is not merely an island of the past — it is an island of the future.

Sicilian wines are no longer “wines of the sun.”
They are wines of altitude, of precision, of vision.

Lucido transforms into a mineral, crystalline white.
Grillo rises as the island’s modern superstar.
Nero d’Avola becomes elegance rather than power.
Inzolia, Zibibbo, Frappato, Perricone — each finds its new voice in a Sicily reinventing itself.

And behind all these wines lies a shared philosophy:
sustainability isn’t a trend; it’s the only way forward.

When I stepped out of the palazzo, the November light still lingered on the city, and the aroma of freshly tasted wines clung softly to the air. That’s when I understood the true allure of Sicily: it is not an island living in the shadow of its glorious past, but one entirely committed to the present it is building — a present more daring than many wine regions in the world.

Sicily is not reinventing itself. Sicily is evolving — and inviting us to witness its future.

Guadalajara – The Cultural Heartbeat of Jalisco

The journey begins in Guadalajara, a city where tradition and modernity dance in perfect harmony. With its baroque architecture, colorful markets, and the ever-present sound of mariachi, Guadalajara embodies Mexico’s generous soul.

Our first evening began with a welcome cocktail at the Governor’s Residence — a majestic colonial palace filled with cultural artifacts and murals narrating Jalisco’s history. In its vast inner courtyard, under the soft glow of lanterns, we were welcomed with local delicacies and our first sips of tequila — the ideal prologue to understanding this land of warmth and craftsmanship.

Valle del Tequila – A UNESCO Heritage of Spirit and Soil

An hour away from Guadalajara, the landscape opens into an amphitheater of bluish hills covered in agave. This is Paisaje Agavero y Valle del Tequila, recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

The town of Tequila, with its cobbled streets, colonial houses and historic distilleries, offers a complete immersion into the universe of Mexico’s national drink. Each distillery has its own story – some preserve traditional methods using stone ovens and tahona wheels pulled by mules, while others impress with contemporary technology and interactive tours.

The route includes the towns of Amatitán, El Arenal, Magdalena, Ahualulco de Mercado, Etzatlán and Teuchitlán, each with a distinct identity. In Teuchitlán lies the Guachimontones Archaeological Zone, a unique circular complex and proof of a pre-Hispanic civilization that first cultivated the agave plant.

Beyond tastings, the region offers authentic gastronomy in restaurants such as La Cueva de Don Cenobio and La Antigua Casona, and accommodation experiences in historical haciendas like Hacienda El Carmen and Solar de las Ánimas.

New tourism projects announced for 2026 – including the La Familia Rivera Trail in Teuchitlán and My Quetzal Trail in Amatitán – will further enrich the experience with themed tours, mixology, gastronomy and outdoor adventure.

Los Altos del Tequila – Where Tradition Meets Elegance

To the northeast, at altitudes above 1,500 meters, lies Los Altos de Jalisco – a region known for its elegant tequilas with floral aromas and a silky texture. The red, iron-rich soil and cooler climate define the distinct style of tequilas produced here, and locals proudly call it “the land with a soul.”

The Los Altos del Tequila Route crosses the towns of Arandas, Atotonilco el Alto, Tepatitlán de Morelos, Ayotlán, Acatic and San Ignacio Cerro Gordo – forming a triangle of distilleries, haciendas and charro traditions, Mexico’s national equestrian heritage.

Distillery tours such as Tequila Don Julio (Atotonilco el Alto), Campo Azul (Jesús María) and San Matías (Acatic) offer visitors a complete experience – from walking through agave fields to guided tastings and farm-to-table gastronomic pairings.

Culinary offerings here are equally refined, from Bramido and Casa Trujillo in Tepatitlán to La Regina 1904 in Arandas. The local cuisine blends terroir ingredients – corn, beans, beef and artisanal cheeses – with tequila or raicilla pairings, creating a contemporary reinterpretation of tradition.

Haciendas transformed into boutique hotels, such as Hacienda Vieja (Arandas) or Casa Naranjos (Tepatitlán), offer colonial charm and modern comfort, ideal for cultural and gastronomic tourism.

Raicilla – The Hidden Gem of Jalisco

Beyond tequila, Jalisco brings another spirit into the spotlight: Raicilla, a distillate with its own Denomination of Origin. Produced mainly in the coastal and mountain regions, Raicilla embodies a 300-year-old artisanal tradition.

Made from various species of agave, this handcrafted spirit combines ancestral methods – roasting the agave hearts in clay ovens, natural fermentation, and distillation in copper or clay stills. Raicilla has a surprising aromatic profile, with earthy, wild herb and tropical fruit notes, and a delicate mineral finish.

The recognition of its Denomination of Origin in 2019 has brought Raicilla international attention, while the Ruta de la Raicilla and Ruta Costalegre offer visitors the opportunity to discover the small producers who keep this ancient craft alive.

Puerto Vallarta – Where the Mountains Meet the Sea

The journey ends on the Pacific coast, in Puerto Vallarta, a destination that blends Mexican spirit with modern sophistication. The resort town is a meeting point between ocean, mountains and culture, offering a mix of fine dining, adventure tourism and authentic hospitality.

The beaches of Costalegre, from Chamela to Careyes, invite both relaxation and exploration – through fishing villages, nature reserves and beachfront bars where cocktails made with Tequila and Raicilla have become iconic.

A Journey Through the True Taste of Mexico

From Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco offers more than a route — it offers a revelation. Every city, every distillery, every dish tells a story about people, land, and legacy. Here, authenticity isn’t a marketing term; it’s a way of life. Jalisco is a place to taste, to listen, and to feel — because in Mexico, flavor always comes with a story.

Berlin always has something special that draws you in and makes you want to return. It is a vibrant city where, alongside history and art, you also find one of the most important international wine competitions: the Berliner Wine Trophy, held twice a year. My first participation was in 2014, and since then I have grown, learned, and refined my skills, eventually becoming a team leader (panel chair), coordinating a tasting panel.

The competition itself consists of four days of intensive tastings, each organized into several series of wines. Every series shares a common theme: they may come from the same country, the same grape variety, or related varieties from different regions. This format allows you to quickly form an understanding of a vintage’s typicity or the evolving trends in wine styles.

A relevant example: all red wines from the 2024 vintage were fruit-forward, unoaked, and without barrel ageing – approachable, juicy, easy to pair, yet full of personality.

The Cuvée series, whether white or red, always presents a challenge. Guessing the country of origin is not easy, and that is what makes it exciting. In another series dedicated to Chardonnay, I bet on Eastern Europe – and was right: the wines came from Hungary.

Italy remains a reliable benchmark, a country you can always count on for diversity and quality. I “traveled” through its wines: from Sicily with Catarratto, to Piemonte with Arneis, through Friuli, Veneto, Soave, Marche, and Tuscany with Trebbiano (Turbiano), Ribolla Gialla, Garganega, and Verdicchio, and back to Sicily with Carricante. All displayed freshness, floral and fruity notes, and lively acidity – exactly what you want on a warm summer day.

A standout moment was the series dedicated to Cortese, a regal selection of Gavi – the perfect wine to enjoy by the sea. Among the white wines, the Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder) series from Germany deserves mention – a revelation for its personality and structure, despite being considered a neutral grape. It may seem rustic in its first year, but it evolves beautifully and reaches perfection after 3–4 years. Gold medals were awarded generously.

For the red wines, global trends were confirmed: intense fruit aromas, unoaked, elegant, and easy to drink. This is a style I personally prefer. The most spectacular was Tempranillo from 2024 and 2023, sometimes blended with Graciano or Garnacha. Italy and Spain were the stars of the competition.

There were also surprises: red wines from Cyprus, introduced by our Cypriot colleague. Indigenous varieties such as Yiannoudi, Ofthalmo, and Maratheftiko (vintages 2018–2022) impressed with aromas of dark fruits, aromatic herbs, and spices.

Participating in the Berliner Wine Trophy is always a valuable experience – not only for the wines tasted, but also for the people you meet and for seeing international trends confirmed. It was a true pleasure to work alongside my fellow panel members, whose professionalism, attention to detail, and collaborative spirit made every tasting both rigorous and enjoyable. I am also grateful to the organizers, who provided perfect conditions for evaluation and a welcoming environment for all participants. This experience reaffirmed that the success of a wine competition relies on a dedicated team and passionate people. The Berliner Wine Trophy remains a benchmark in the wine world, and the 2025 edition was no exception.

Studying the Fetească Neagră from Lacerta in depth confirmed something I had long suspected: that this indigenous Romanian grape, when treated with understanding and care, can tell stories of rare beauty. And that the Dealu Mare region—literally “The Big Hill,” Romania’s most prestigious red wine appellation—is where this variety truly comes into its own.

Though Fetească Neagră (pronounced fe-TEASK-ah NEAH-grah) is cultivated in several regions across Romania and Moldova, it’s in Dealu Mare, with its iron-rich reddish soils, southern exposure and long ripening season, that it achieves the deepest expression of its character. The region’s terroir, shaped by hills, warm summers and cool nights, brings balance and structure to a grape that can be temperamental in the vineyard and complex in the cellar.

Lacerta Winery, located in the village of Fințești, has become one of the leading names in modern Romanian winemaking. Here, Fetească Neagră is not rushed or forced into international styles—it is guided, gently, to reveal what the land and the year have given. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, with minimal mechanical stress. Part of the wine is then matured in carefully selected Romanian oak barrels usually used. These barrels don’t overpower the wine—they accompany it. They add finesse, depth, and a slow rhythm to the evolution of fruit, tannin, and spice.

Over the course of ten years and ten vintages—2011 to 2022—Lacerta’s Fetească Neagră has shown remarkable stylistic consistency while reflecting the individuality of each harvest. The 2012 vintage, shaped by prolonged drought, gave concentrated wines with black fruit, dried plums and a subtle, iron-like minerality. 2016 was all about balance: bright acidity, supple tannins, complex aromas of dark cherries, sweet spices and bittersweet chocolate. And 2022, a standout vintage, produced a wine that’s both fresh and structured, with excellent potential for aging.

Even in more challenging years like 2014 or 2020, marked by climatic extremes, Lacerta succeeded in crafting wines that are coherent and honest, true to their vintage and varietal identity. That’s no small feat for a grape as demanding as Fetească Neagră.

Organoleptically, the wine is intense in color—deep ruby in its youth, turning garnet with age. The aromatic profile is generous and layered: ripe black fruits (blackberries, plums, black cherries), dried fig, coffee, leather and a touch of dark chocolate. On the palate, it is velvety and expansive, with a fine-tuned balance between acidity and tannin. The finish is long, elegant and slightly earthy, echoing the mineral tension of the Dealu Mare terroir.

Pairing this wine invites creativity. It shines next to duck breast with sour cherry sauce, slow-cooked beef stews, hard aged cheeses or even a rustic dessert with dried fruits and cinnamon. But perhaps the best pairing is a quiet evening among friends who know how to listen—to each other, and to the wine.

What remains after a glass—or a bottle—of Lacerta’s Fetească Neagră is more than just the satisfaction of a well-made wine. It is the feeling of having been part, even for a moment, of a deeper story. A story about place, about patience, and about a native grape that, when given time and attention, can truly rise to excellence.

Lacerta’s wines are the result of a vision that blends scientific rigor with emotional intuition. Behind that vision stands Mihai Baniță, the estate’s chief oenologist, whose steady hand and deep understanding of both the grape and the land have shaped every vintage. He approaches winemaking with precision, restraint, and an instinct for elegance. Under his winemaking skills, Lacerta has become a benchmark not only for Fetească Neagră, but for what modern Romanian winemaking can achieve when tradition meets innovation.

Photo credit: www.lacertawinery.ro & myself

Two records were set during this edition:

• The highest number of rosé wine samples ever registered in the competition’s history – 50 more than last year.
• And most notably for us, Romania submitted 140 samples, more than triple the entries from previous years.

What are the benefits of such a competition for Romanian wine?

First and foremost, visibility. Many of the judges are journalists, wine communicators, or influencers with a strong presence in international media and on social platforms. When we talk about visibility, it’s not just about the wine itself – it’s also about the gastronomy, location, and cultural experience that surround it.

This kind of exposure benefits not only winemakers but also local tourism, especially oenotourism, which deserves a prominent place in the offers of Romanian travel operators. Wine brings people together – it opens conversations and creates memorable experiences.

Secondly, many of the judges are buyers for large distribution networks, specialized wine stores, and import-export companies. Hosting such an event is an excellent opportunity for Romanian producers to build commercial relationships.

For the Romanian winemaker, a medal from CMB is more than a trophy – it’s a gateway to international trade fairs, often presented in dedicated pavilions under the CMB banner. It also opens doors to new markets, especially since CMB has launched wine bars in Mexico City and Seoul, exclusively featuring medal-winning wines – locations chosen for their market potential and wine-savvy consumers.

So, if you’re wondering whether it’s worth submitting samples to this competition or which wine contest to choose – consider all these benefits.

We now eagerly await the results to be published on April 7, to see how Romanian wines performed in this international arena.

Tasting Highlights & Regional Standouts

As a proud member of Tasting Panel No. 2, which sampled over 120 wines in three days, I can say that France still leads the global rosé scene. Our series featured wines from:

• Provence (x2)
• Languedoc-Roussillon
• Corsica
• Loire Valley

These regions reaffirmed their dominance in terms of balance, aromatic precision, and stylistic elegance.

I was pleasantly surprised by Abruzzo, confirming that Italy is catching up fast with seductive rosé styles close in profile to their French counterparts. Portugal was also impressively represented, with many high-quality entries, and Spain showed noticeable improvement with consistently strong wines.

As for Romania, 2024 was not a standout year for rosé production – a sentiment echoed by the wines from Austria and Hungary, which also seemed to face challenges this vintage.

Being surrounded by jury colleagues with diverse professional backgrounds – from retail and hospitality to education, journalism, and marketing – makes each discussion an opportunity for continuous learning and fresh insights into the world of wine.

Beyond the Tasting – Discovering Dobrogea

In addition to the competition itself, we enjoyed unforgettable winery visits and culinary experiences across the Dobrogea region. Each stop added depth to our understanding of the terroir and local winemaking philosophy:

• Domeniul Bogdan – Biodynamic excellence and a holistic approach to viticulture.
• Alira Winery – Boutique wines with strong character from the hills of Dobrogea.
• Murfatlar – One of Romania’s most iconic wine brands, where we also enjoyed a festive dinner at New Punct Turistic Murfatlar, complete with traditional music and dancing.

In the evenings, we explored local cuisine in emblematic venues:

• Crazy Social House – a creative and relaxed space showcasing Dobrogea flavors with a modern twist.
• Golful Pescarilor – a charming seaside restaurant offering fresh fish and seafood, perfectly paired with local wines.

These experiences were made possible thanks to the generous support of:

• Jidvei Group
• Navigo
• Vintruvian Estate, which includes:
  • Caii de la Letea
  • Domeniile Prince Matei
  • CramaOlterra
  • Crama Histria

We were warmly hosted at Hotel Malibu, located right by the sea – the views and hospitality were truly exceptional.
Just before the gala dinner, we enjoyed a lunch hosted by the Transylvania region, offering us a taste of outstanding wines from:

• Liliac
• Villa Vinèa
• Crama La Salina
• Familia Darabont

The gala dinner on the final evening was held at the breathtaking Crama Rasova, overlooking the Danube and closing this incredible edition on a high note – with music, celebration, and of course rose.

1250 wines, dozens of friendships, and one unforgettable experience.
Constanța has once again proven that it’s not just a summer destination – it’s a rising hub for wine, hospitality, and international recognition.

Photo credit: Geo Curnic themoment.ro