Rosé remains, without a doubt, the most photogenic wine — but its true charm begins beyond the image.

It is perhaps the most seductive through its versatility: the delicacy and finesse of a white wine, paired with a subtle structure, sometimes surprisingly athletic, reminiscent of reds. A perfect balance between lightness and character.

Spring is only just settling in. The air still carries a gentle chill, yet the light grows warmer, the days longer, and the mind drifts instinctively toward that first glass of rosé enjoyed in the sun.

It is more than a wine — it is a feeling you recognize before you define it.

Calabria. Between Sea, Light and Identity

After four years, I rediscovered Calabria — this time on the Ionian coast, near Cirò. Southern Italy has that rare ability to make you feel instantly at home, even when you are far away. Only the hypnotic shades of the Mediterranean remind you that you are, in fact, somewhere else.

Three days of competition. Three days of focus, refinement and discovery.

More than 55 international tasters from 20 countries evaluated over 1,100 rosé wines from 30 countries. A true snapshot of global trends and stylistic diversity.

For me, this edition also brought a premiere: serving as jury president. An honor and a responsibility I embraced with both joy and respect.

Styles, Identity and Terroir

One of the most fascinating aspects of such tastings is the moment you begin to recognize a wine — its country, sometimes even its region.

France remains the undeniable benchmark. Rosés with delicate, almost ethereal color, yet impeccable elegance and structure. Provence stands apart as a clear reference. Languedoc, Bordeaux or Corsica come close, though often with a slightly more rustic edge.

Italy made a strong impression this year, particularly Abruzzo, with two Grand Gold Medals. One of them — Talmonti Rosé 2025 — was, without exaggeration, one of the revelations of the competition.

And what made this experience even more meaningful for me is that two of the official revelations of the competition were evaluated within my own panel.

The second comes from Romania — Issa Pinot Noir Rosé 2025 — a wine that clearly confirms the direction and growing confidence of Romanian rosé on the international stage.

Romania entered 51 samples and achieved 17 medals — a 33% success rate.
More than a result, this is validation. A presence that can no longer be overlooked.

Rosé, Between Trend and Emotion

It is true — rosé is no longer riding the same consumption wave it enjoyed before the pandemic. Yet it retains its charm. And, more importantly, its relevance.

Because rosé is not just about trends. It is about moments. About light. About atmosphere. About that subtle feeling that summer begins just a little earlier — in a glass.

Competitions like the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles are not only about medals or rankings. They are about direction. About how tastes evolve, how identities take shape, and who dares to step outside the expected.

For me, rosé remains the beginning of every season.
And, each time, a promise.

The November light in Sicily has little in common with the blaze of summer. It’s softer, rounder, yet carries the quiet assurance of a place that has watched centuries pass. It settles on old facades, hidden courtyards and sun-worn stone as if continuing a conversation begun long before us. Palermo felt unusually gentle that week — almost summery, wrapped in warm air, clear skies and a golden glow that gave the city the illusion of a lingering September. No rain, no chill, none of the grey we associate with November back home. Everything moved at an easy, sunlit rhythm, as if the city were preparing us, almost imperceptibly, for what we were about to taste.

In the heart of the city, Palazzo Branciforte opened its doors to the encounters that would frame the story of modern Sicily. A Renaissance palace with the austere nobility of its former centuries, now reborn as a cultural space, it proved the perfect setting to understand an island in the midst of redefining itself. Within its cool rooms and high ceilings, Sicily began to reveal its new voice.

Sicily Between Tradition and Transformation — From Terroir to Responsibility

Today, Sicily is one of Italy’s largest and most dynamic appellations, a viticultural mosaic where tradition alone is no longer enough. Climate change isn’t an abstract notion here — it is a daily reality: rising temperatures, persistent drought, scorching summers, pressure on soils, pressure on people.

DOC Sicilia chose not to respond with nostalgia but with strategy. And that strategy has a name: SOStain, the Sicilian sustainability foundation reshaping the island’s entire approach to viticulture — from integrated and organic agriculture to reduced water and energy use, soil protection, full traceability and a strong return to biodiversity.

After the symposium, over a quiet glass of wine, Antonio Rallo — president of the Consortium and owner of Donnafugata — explained to me with disarming clarity that SOStain is not a marketing slogan but Sicily’s survival manual. The way he spoke about soil, water and vine betrayed the responsibility of someone who knows that the future of wine begins with small gestures, repeated patiently over years. For him, sustainability isn’t a trend — it is a lifeline.

And here lies the surprise: Sicily doesn’t simply want to remain relevant.
It wants to become a global model of sustainability, despite the challenges.

The Three Pillars of the Sicilian Temple: Lucido, Grillo, Nero d’Avola

The first masterclass explored foundations — what truly defines Sicily at its core. The three grapes in focus — Catarratto (Lucido), Grillo and Nero d’Avola — felt like essential chapters of the island’s identity, reinterpreted through a modern lens.

Lucido (Catarratto)
Long considered a workhorse variety, it appeared here as a revelation. High-altitude Lucido shows a brightness that evokes cool mornings rather than southern heat: notes of pink grapefruit, green apple, white peach and a delicate marine salinity. In versions aged on fine lees, the texture deepens, gaining a quiet elegance that needs no showmanship. A deeply underestimated grape with remarkable potential.

Grillo
If Lucido is tradition, Grillo is freedom. A chameleon of a grape, capable of swinging between tropical warmth and saline, zesty freshness depending on where and how it’s grown. In the glasses before us, Grillo moved from citrus-driven verticality to richer, more exotic expressions. A versatile grape, perfectly tuned to the needs of a changing climate.

Nero d’Avola
The undisputed monarch of Sicilian reds. Here, it combined blackberries, cherries and subtle spice with surprising freshness and silky tannins. Nero d’Avola is no longer the heavy, rustic red of decades past — it has become a refined, altitude-friendly wine that keeps its soul while evolving in style.

Hidden Treasures: Inzolia, Zibibbo, Frappato, Perricone

The second masterclass felt like the poetic counterpoint to the first — a deep dive into the island’s quiet, unexpected diversity.

Inzolia
Graceful, calm, understated. Citrus, almond, mango and a faint herbal whisper. A sunlit grape, but never exuberant — always balanced.

Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria)
The scent of eternal summer: white peach, jasmine, pineapple — yet surprisingly crisp and dry on the palate. The room softened noticeably with this wine; it’s hard not to smile when Zibibbo is done well.

Frappato
Playful, ruby-red, aromatic. Strawberries, raspberries, violets. Whisper-light tannins. The kind of red you drink chilled, fast, and cheerfully — more terrace happiness than classroom discipline.

Perricone
A rediscovered native, with firm tannins, wild herbs, pink peppercorn and dark fruit. It brought welcome depth to the line-up — a reminder that Sicily is not only pleasure, but also gravitas.

Sicily’s Tomorrow Is Being Written Today

The masterclasses were more than tastings; they were lessons in adaptation, identity and evolution. Inside the cool rooms of Palazzo Branciforte, I understood why Sicily is not merely an island of the past — it is an island of the future.

Sicilian wines are no longer “wines of the sun.”
They are wines of altitude, of precision, of vision.

Lucido transforms into a mineral, crystalline white.
Grillo rises as the island’s modern superstar.
Nero d’Avola becomes elegance rather than power.
Inzolia, Zibibbo, Frappato, Perricone — each finds its new voice in a Sicily reinventing itself.

And behind all these wines lies a shared philosophy:
sustainability isn’t a trend; it’s the only way forward.

When I stepped out of the palazzo, the November light still lingered on the city, and the aroma of freshly tasted wines clung softly to the air. That’s when I understood the true allure of Sicily: it is not an island living in the shadow of its glorious past, but one entirely committed to the present it is building — a present more daring than many wine regions in the world.

Sicily is not reinventing itself. Sicily is evolving — and inviting us to witness its future.

A Spirit with a Secret Past

Raicilla was born in the 17th century, when local producers sought to escape the heavy colonial taxes on agave distillates. To disguise it, they called it “raicilla” — “little root” — implying it came from the plant’s roots rather than its heart.
But behind that humble name stood centuries of craft. Indigenous people of western Mexico had already been cooking agave (maguey) long before Spanish colonization. The word mezcal itself comes from the Nahuatl mexcalli — “cooked maguey” — a reminder that these spirits predate the modern state and even the nation itself.

In Jalisco, this ancestral knowledge merged with the distilling techniques brought from Asia through the Manila Galleon trade route (1565–1815). Ships sailing from the Philippines to Acapulco carried not only spices and silk, but also the art of distillation. When that knowledge reached the mountains of Jalisco, it fused with local tradition — and Raicilla was born.

From “Vino Mezcal” to Denomination of Origin

By the 1800s, agave spirits were known generically as vino mezcal, produced across a wide region that included Tequila.
Historical records show that by 1887, over 60 million agaves were being cultivated, yielding 100,000 barrels of mezcal wine.
But Raicilla took a different path. Produced in remote highlands and coastal villages, often outside the law, it remained a rural secret — passed from generation to generation in small tabernas.

It wasn’t until 2019 that Raicilla received its own Denomination of Origin (DO), covering 16 municipalities in Jalisco and one in Nayarit. After three centuries of hiding, the “little root” had finally earned its name in history.

The Taste of Place

Raicilla is more than a drink — it’s a conversation with the land.
Depending on where it’s made, its character shifts dramatically:

• Raicilla de la Sierra comes from the temperate, mineral-rich highlands around Mascota and San Sebastián del Oeste, made mostly from Agave maximiliana and inaequidens. These are floral, herbaceous, with crisp acidity — the mountain air bottled.
• Raicilla de la Costa is born in the warm, humid Pacific lowlands near El Tuito and Tomatlán, where Agave angustifolia and rhodacantha thrive. Here, the flavors are rounder, fruitier, with whispers of mango, sea breeze and smoke.

I still remember tasting a Sierra-style Raicilla in a small distillery Taberna Tres Gallos. It had notes of pine and citrus, with a faint trace of smoke and salt. There was something profoundly human in it — imperfect, alive, and honest.

Craft and Chemistry

Despite its rustic charm, Raicilla is a marvel of natural chemistry.
When agave piñas are roasted, their complex inulin break down into simple sugars; during fermentation, wild yeasts transform them into alcohols and aromatic esters; and distillation in clay or copper stills concentrates those volatile compounds into a rich, textured spirit.

Each stage adds complexity:

• Roasting creates caramelized, smoky notes.
• Fermentation yields fruit and spice aromas.
• Distillation refines texture and structure.

Most Raicillas are bottled between 40–50% ABV, unaged (joven) to preserve purity. Some are aged in oak barrels (reposado or añejo) or matured in glass (madurada en vidrio), softening the edges and introducing tones of vanilla, dried fruit and spice.

The Human Scale of Production

Unlike tequila, Raicilla remains proudly artisanal.
There are only about 82 registered distilleries, producing roughly 650,000 liters per year — a fraction of the industrial tequila output. The ecosystem is intimate: farmers, distillers and families working side by side, cultivating around 1,100 hectares of agave.

About 70% of Raicilla comes from Agave maximiliana, a species that grows wild on the steep slopes of the Sierra Madre Occidental. Harvesting it is not industrial — it’s personal. Each plant matures for 8 to 12 years before it’s cut, roasted in earthen ovens, and fermented under open skies.

It’s this connection to time and place that gives Raicilla its soul. You can taste the patience, the weather, the altitude.

Tasting Raicilla: A Personal Moment

Due to Spirits Selection by CMB, surrounded by experts from all over the world, I found myself in front of a glass that defied expectations. Unlike tequila’s clean precision or mezcal’s smoky intensity, Raicilla seemed wilder — its aromas unfolding slowly, unpredictably. Notes of wild herbs, citrus peel, sun-warmed earth, and a faint saltiness that lingered on the palate. It reminded me of why we travel for taste: to find authenticity. Raicilla isn’t polished; it’s pure. It speaks of mountains, fire, and people who never stopped believing that tradition has a place in modernity.

From Hidden Past to Bright Future

Today, Raicilla stands proudly alongside tequila and mezcal as one of Mexico’s great spirits.
The Ruta de la Raicilla, launched by the Jalisco Tourism Board, invites travelers to visit its tabernas, meet distillers, and experience the landscape behind each bottle — mountains shrouded in mist, clay ovens smoldering with agave fibers, and families who turn nature into culture.

For me, Raicilla is more than a rediscovery — it’s a reminder.
That authenticity survives when people care.
That every sip can carry centuries of memory.
And that sometimes, the smallest roots grow into the strongest traditions.

Still, what makes each trip here truly special are the people. Over the years, my fellow judges—coming from every corner of the world—have become like a family. In fact, I often see them more than my own relatives. With them I share not just wines and tastings, but also small urban adventures, long walks, late-night conversations, and the simple joy of being together.

This year, before dinner, we began with something quite unexpected for Berlin: a visit to a sake brewery. Marie, a dear friend and sake educator at WSET, welcomed us into a newly opened brewhouse next to a cozy sake bar. There we met the producer himself, who walked us through each step of the process—faithful to Japanese tradition but using rice imported from Italy by his own family. We tasted several styles of sake, including a sparkling one, and for a moment stepped into a completely different world—delicate, aromatic, and just as complex as wine. It was the perfect prelude to what would become a memorable evening.

For several years now, it has become our tradition to close one of the competition days with a special dinner in a surprising location. In 2025, our choice was Merold, a restaurant in East Berlin. Getting there is a small adventure in itself: the competition takes place in the west of the city, near Lake Tegel, so the journey by U-Bahn to the center can take almost an hour. Sometimes we go by bike, other times we stroll along the quiet lakeside paths, but the truth is, in Berlin even the journey feels like part of the experience.

At Merold, a creative and daring menu was waiting for us. Pairing a dinner for a table full of wine judges is never an easy task, but the team rose to the challenge. Only one natural wine sparked a heated discussion—the kind of wine that could easily mislead a newcomer into thinking it represents the whole category.

As for the dishes, they were unforgettable: radishes with yogurt and cheese, grilled cauliflower with oil and blackcurrants, shallots sautéed with garlic and dark flour, guinea fowl ravioli with bacon “orecchiette,” and finally, a refreshing dessert—gooseberry ice cream. Each course told its own story, each bite revealed a new layer.

And, as always, I realized that the real beauty of these evenings lies not only in the food or the wines, but in the people gathered around the table. In the laughter that comes out of nowhere, in the memories shared, in the plans made for the future.

That, for me, is what Berlin truly means: beyond the competition, beyond the wines, it’s about the joy of reunion, the friendships that grow stronger every year, and the certainty that this city never lets you leave empty-handed. Each time, you take something with you—a story, a memory, a smile that lingers long after the plane or train has taken you away.

Berlin always has something special that draws you in and makes you want to return. It is a vibrant city where, alongside history and art, you also find one of the most important international wine competitions: the Berliner Wine Trophy, held twice a year. My first participation was in 2014, and since then I have grown, learned, and refined my skills, eventually becoming a team leader (panel chair), coordinating a tasting panel.

The competition itself consists of four days of intensive tastings, each organized into several series of wines. Every series shares a common theme: they may come from the same country, the same grape variety, or related varieties from different regions. This format allows you to quickly form an understanding of a vintage’s typicity or the evolving trends in wine styles.

A relevant example: all red wines from the 2024 vintage were fruit-forward, unoaked, and without barrel ageing – approachable, juicy, easy to pair, yet full of personality.

The Cuvée series, whether white or red, always presents a challenge. Guessing the country of origin is not easy, and that is what makes it exciting. In another series dedicated to Chardonnay, I bet on Eastern Europe – and was right: the wines came from Hungary.

Italy remains a reliable benchmark, a country you can always count on for diversity and quality. I “traveled” through its wines: from Sicily with Catarratto, to Piemonte with Arneis, through Friuli, Veneto, Soave, Marche, and Tuscany with Trebbiano (Turbiano), Ribolla Gialla, Garganega, and Verdicchio, and back to Sicily with Carricante. All displayed freshness, floral and fruity notes, and lively acidity – exactly what you want on a warm summer day.

A standout moment was the series dedicated to Cortese, a regal selection of Gavi – the perfect wine to enjoy by the sea. Among the white wines, the Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder) series from Germany deserves mention – a revelation for its personality and structure, despite being considered a neutral grape. It may seem rustic in its first year, but it evolves beautifully and reaches perfection after 3–4 years. Gold medals were awarded generously.

For the red wines, global trends were confirmed: intense fruit aromas, unoaked, elegant, and easy to drink. This is a style I personally prefer. The most spectacular was Tempranillo from 2024 and 2023, sometimes blended with Graciano or Garnacha. Italy and Spain were the stars of the competition.

There were also surprises: red wines from Cyprus, introduced by our Cypriot colleague. Indigenous varieties such as Yiannoudi, Ofthalmo, and Maratheftiko (vintages 2018–2022) impressed with aromas of dark fruits, aromatic herbs, and spices.

Participating in the Berliner Wine Trophy is always a valuable experience – not only for the wines tasted, but also for the people you meet and for seeing international trends confirmed. It was a true pleasure to work alongside my fellow panel members, whose professionalism, attention to detail, and collaborative spirit made every tasting both rigorous and enjoyable. I am also grateful to the organizers, who provided perfect conditions for evaluation and a welcoming environment for all participants. This experience reaffirmed that the success of a wine competition relies on a dedicated team and passionate people. The Berliner Wine Trophy remains a benchmark in the wine world, and the 2025 edition was no exception.

A Millennia-Old Wine Culture

Slovenia’s winemaking heritage goes back thousands of years. Viticulture has long been part of rural life, passed down through families on sun-drenched hillsides. Far from industrialized wine production, Slovenia has preserved a culture of hands-on, honest winemaking.

The tradition of fermenting white grapes with their skins – what we now call orange wine – was never completely lost here. In western regions like Vipava Valley and Goriška Brda, this technique was quietly kept alive, especially in family cellars, even when modern white wines dominated the global market.

Orange Wines: Between Memory and Modernity

So what exactly is orange wine? It’s a white wine fermented with its grape skins, much like a red. The result: a wine with amber hues, gentle tannins, and surprising aromatic complexity. Expect notes of dried apricots, tea, citrus peel, herbs, sometimes even a slight saltiness – all thanks to extended skin contact.

In Slovenia, orange wines are often made naturally: wild yeasts, minimal to no sulfites, and aging in clay amphorae, old barrels or concrete eggs. It’s a patient, minimalist approach – and one that yields wines full of personality, structure, and depth.

Indigenous Grapes and Diverse Terroirs

Slovenia’s true treasure lies in its native grape varieties, each tied deeply to place. In Vipava Valley, several standout grapes are commonly vinified with skin contact:

• Zelen – herbal, fresh, with crisp acidity and wild plant aromas,
• Rebula (Ribolla Gialla) – taut, mineral, with hints of almond, tea, and yellow fruits,
• Pinela – floral and silky, with subtle dried fruit and a gentle bitterness,
• Malvasia (Malvazija Istarska) – aromatic and rich, with notes of citrus, dried flowers, and saline minerality.

These varieties thrive in Vipava’s limestone and flysch soils, under the influence of the bora, a strong dry wind that reduces disease pressure and allows for organic and biodynamic farming.

Slovenia and the Natural Wine Movement

Slovenia officially stepped into the global spotlight in 2019 when it became the first country to feature orange wines at its national stand at ProWein Düsseldorf. But many producers had long been known among sommeliers and natural wine lovers across Europe, the US and Japan.

Today, Slovenian orange wines feature prominently at festivals like RAW Wine and Orange Wine Festival (Izola). They appear on lists at Michelin-starred restaurants and natural wine bars worldwide. Cradled in a tradition of low-intervention winemaking, these wines are bold, sincere and rooted in place.

✨ A Culture of Sincerity – And Stories Yet to Be Told

What’s remarkable about Slovenia is not just the quality of its wines, but the honesty behind them. There is no smoke and mirrors here – just nature, time, and winemakers who trust both.

Each bottle is a quiet but powerful expression of terroir, vintage, and intention. And the story doesn’t end here. In the next articles in this series, we’ll dive deeper – winery by winery, grape by grape, voice by voice. The map of orange wines is just beginning to take shape – and Slovenia is right at its center.

Two records were set during this edition:

• The highest number of rosé wine samples ever registered in the competition’s history – 50 more than last year.
• And most notably for us, Romania submitted 140 samples, more than triple the entries from previous years.

What are the benefits of such a competition for Romanian wine?

First and foremost, visibility. Many of the judges are journalists, wine communicators, or influencers with a strong presence in international media and on social platforms. When we talk about visibility, it’s not just about the wine itself – it’s also about the gastronomy, location, and cultural experience that surround it.

This kind of exposure benefits not only winemakers but also local tourism, especially oenotourism, which deserves a prominent place in the offers of Romanian travel operators. Wine brings people together – it opens conversations and creates memorable experiences.

Secondly, many of the judges are buyers for large distribution networks, specialized wine stores, and import-export companies. Hosting such an event is an excellent opportunity for Romanian producers to build commercial relationships.

For the Romanian winemaker, a medal from CMB is more than a trophy – it’s a gateway to international trade fairs, often presented in dedicated pavilions under the CMB banner. It also opens doors to new markets, especially since CMB has launched wine bars in Mexico City and Seoul, exclusively featuring medal-winning wines – locations chosen for their market potential and wine-savvy consumers.

So, if you’re wondering whether it’s worth submitting samples to this competition or which wine contest to choose – consider all these benefits.

We now eagerly await the results to be published on April 7, to see how Romanian wines performed in this international arena.

Tasting Highlights & Regional Standouts

As a proud member of Tasting Panel No. 2, which sampled over 120 wines in three days, I can say that France still leads the global rosé scene. Our series featured wines from:

• Provence (x2)
• Languedoc-Roussillon
• Corsica
• Loire Valley

These regions reaffirmed their dominance in terms of balance, aromatic precision, and stylistic elegance.

I was pleasantly surprised by Abruzzo, confirming that Italy is catching up fast with seductive rosé styles close in profile to their French counterparts. Portugal was also impressively represented, with many high-quality entries, and Spain showed noticeable improvement with consistently strong wines.

As for Romania, 2024 was not a standout year for rosé production – a sentiment echoed by the wines from Austria and Hungary, which also seemed to face challenges this vintage.

Being surrounded by jury colleagues with diverse professional backgrounds – from retail and hospitality to education, journalism, and marketing – makes each discussion an opportunity for continuous learning and fresh insights into the world of wine.

Beyond the Tasting – Discovering Dobrogea

In addition to the competition itself, we enjoyed unforgettable winery visits and culinary experiences across the Dobrogea region. Each stop added depth to our understanding of the terroir and local winemaking philosophy:

• Domeniul Bogdan – Biodynamic excellence and a holistic approach to viticulture.
• Alira Winery – Boutique wines with strong character from the hills of Dobrogea.
• Murfatlar – One of Romania’s most iconic wine brands, where we also enjoyed a festive dinner at New Punct Turistic Murfatlar, complete with traditional music and dancing.

In the evenings, we explored local cuisine in emblematic venues:

• Crazy Social House – a creative and relaxed space showcasing Dobrogea flavors with a modern twist.
• Golful Pescarilor – a charming seaside restaurant offering fresh fish and seafood, perfectly paired with local wines.

These experiences were made possible thanks to the generous support of:

• Jidvei Group
• Navigo
• Vintruvian Estate, which includes:
  • Caii de la Letea
  • Domeniile Prince Matei
  • CramaOlterra
  • Crama Histria

We were warmly hosted at Hotel Malibu, located right by the sea – the views and hospitality were truly exceptional.
Just before the gala dinner, we enjoyed a lunch hosted by the Transylvania region, offering us a taste of outstanding wines from:

• Liliac
• Villa Vinèa
• Crama La Salina
• Familia Darabont

The gala dinner on the final evening was held at the breathtaking Crama Rasova, overlooking the Danube and closing this incredible edition on a high note – with music, celebration, and of course rose.

1250 wines, dozens of friendships, and one unforgettable experience.
Constanța has once again proven that it’s not just a summer destination – it’s a rising hub for wine, hospitality, and international recognition.

Photo credit: Geo Curnic themoment.ro