A Spirit with a Secret Past

Raicilla was born in the 17th century, when local producers sought to escape the heavy colonial taxes on agave distillates. To disguise it, they called it “raicilla” — “little root” — implying it came from the plant’s roots rather than its heart.
But behind that humble name stood centuries of craft. Indigenous people of western Mexico had already been cooking agave (maguey) long before Spanish colonization. The word mezcal itself comes from the Nahuatl mexcalli — “cooked maguey” — a reminder that these spirits predate the modern state and even the nation itself.

In Jalisco, this ancestral knowledge merged with the distilling techniques brought from Asia through the Manila Galleon trade route (1565–1815). Ships sailing from the Philippines to Acapulco carried not only spices and silk, but also the art of distillation. When that knowledge reached the mountains of Jalisco, it fused with local tradition — and Raicilla was born.

From “Vino Mezcal” to Denomination of Origin

By the 1800s, agave spirits were known generically as vino mezcal, produced across a wide region that included Tequila.
Historical records show that by 1887, over 60 million agaves were being cultivated, yielding 100,000 barrels of mezcal wine.
But Raicilla took a different path. Produced in remote highlands and coastal villages, often outside the law, it remained a rural secret — passed from generation to generation in small tabernas.

It wasn’t until 2019 that Raicilla received its own Denomination of Origin (DO), covering 16 municipalities in Jalisco and one in Nayarit. After three centuries of hiding, the “little root” had finally earned its name in history.

The Taste of Place

Raicilla is more than a drink — it’s a conversation with the land.
Depending on where it’s made, its character shifts dramatically:

• Raicilla de la Sierra comes from the temperate, mineral-rich highlands around Mascota and San Sebastián del Oeste, made mostly from Agave maximiliana and inaequidens. These are floral, herbaceous, with crisp acidity — the mountain air bottled.
• Raicilla de la Costa is born in the warm, humid Pacific lowlands near El Tuito and Tomatlán, where Agave angustifolia and rhodacantha thrive. Here, the flavors are rounder, fruitier, with whispers of mango, sea breeze and smoke.

I still remember tasting a Sierra-style Raicilla in a small distillery Taberna Tres Gallos. It had notes of pine and citrus, with a faint trace of smoke and salt. There was something profoundly human in it — imperfect, alive, and honest.

Craft and Chemistry

Despite its rustic charm, Raicilla is a marvel of natural chemistry.
When agave piñas are roasted, their complex inulin break down into simple sugars; during fermentation, wild yeasts transform them into alcohols and aromatic esters; and distillation in clay or copper stills concentrates those volatile compounds into a rich, textured spirit.

Each stage adds complexity:

• Roasting creates caramelized, smoky notes.
• Fermentation yields fruit and spice aromas.
• Distillation refines texture and structure.

Most Raicillas are bottled between 40–50% ABV, unaged (joven) to preserve purity. Some are aged in oak barrels (reposado or añejo) or matured in glass (madurada en vidrio), softening the edges and introducing tones of vanilla, dried fruit and spice.

The Human Scale of Production

Unlike tequila, Raicilla remains proudly artisanal.
There are only about 82 registered distilleries, producing roughly 650,000 liters per year — a fraction of the industrial tequila output. The ecosystem is intimate: farmers, distillers and families working side by side, cultivating around 1,100 hectares of agave.

About 70% of Raicilla comes from Agave maximiliana, a species that grows wild on the steep slopes of the Sierra Madre Occidental. Harvesting it is not industrial — it’s personal. Each plant matures for 8 to 12 years before it’s cut, roasted in earthen ovens, and fermented under open skies.

It’s this connection to time and place that gives Raicilla its soul. You can taste the patience, the weather, the altitude.

Tasting Raicilla: A Personal Moment

Due to Spirits Selection by CMB, surrounded by experts from all over the world, I found myself in front of a glass that defied expectations. Unlike tequila’s clean precision or mezcal’s smoky intensity, Raicilla seemed wilder — its aromas unfolding slowly, unpredictably. Notes of wild herbs, citrus peel, sun-warmed earth, and a faint saltiness that lingered on the palate. It reminded me of why we travel for taste: to find authenticity. Raicilla isn’t polished; it’s pure. It speaks of mountains, fire, and people who never stopped believing that tradition has a place in modernity.

From Hidden Past to Bright Future

Today, Raicilla stands proudly alongside tequila and mezcal as one of Mexico’s great spirits.
The Ruta de la Raicilla, launched by the Jalisco Tourism Board, invites travelers to visit its tabernas, meet distillers, and experience the landscape behind each bottle — mountains shrouded in mist, clay ovens smoldering with agave fibers, and families who turn nature into culture.

For me, Raicilla is more than a rediscovery — it’s a reminder.
That authenticity survives when people care.
That every sip can carry centuries of memory.
And that sometimes, the smallest roots grow into the strongest traditions.

 At the heart of Gérard Bertrand’s winemaking philosophy is a deep respect for nature and a commitment to sustainable practices. Embracing biodynamic principles, the vineyards are cultivated with a keen awareness of the ecosystem, ensuring that every bottle produced not only delights the palate but also honors the environment. This dedication to balance and harmony is evident in the distinct character and purity of Gérard Bertrand wines.

 A Journey Through Signature Wines

Gérard Bertrand Villa Soleilla: Sunshine in a Bottle

Villa Soleilla is a radiant wine that captures the essence of the Mediterranean sunshine. This vibrant wine is crafted with precision, offering a delightful bouquet of citrus fruits and floral notes. Perfect for warm, sunlit days and joyous gatherings, Villa Soleilla brings a refreshing elegance to any occasion, making it a favorite among those who appreciate a lively and versatile wine.

Tasting Notes: Bright and crisp with aromas of citrus, white flowers, and a hint of minerality. Delicate and elegant structure with a lingering finish.

Pairing Suggestions: Ideal with seafood, salads, or enjoyed as an aperitif.

Gérard Bertrand Château l’Hospitalet La Clape: A Symphony of Elegance

Château l’Hospitalet Grand Vin is the epitome of sophistication and refinement, a wine that embodies the rich history and tradition of the Languedoc region. This blend is crafted with meticulous care, combining the finest grapes to produce a wine of exceptional depth and complexity. Whether served at a grand dinner or savored on a quiet evening, Château l’Hospitalet Grand Vin promises an unforgettable experience.

Tasting Notes: Fresh red with clear fruitiness, ripe almost dry blackberry, blueberry next to licorice and coffee. Very well integrated wood, 12-16 months in barrel, that ends in  soft ripe and smooth tannins, all turning into a juicy, meaty wine. Well balanced with a long spicy finish with eucalyptus and red pepper. Benefiting from decanting.

Pairing Suggestions: Pairs beautifully with red meats like beef tartare, game, and aged cheeses.

Gérard Bertrand Clos d’Ora: A Meditative Experience

 Clos d’Ora stands as a testament to Gérard Bertrand’s commitment to biodynamic farming and spiritual connection with the earth. This wine is a blend of grace and power, offering a deep, soulful profile that invites contemplation. It’s a wine meant to be savored slowly, allowing its intricate layers to unfold.

Tasting Notes: Rich and intense with notes of dark fruit, spices, and earthy undertones.

Pairing Suggestions: Best paired with rich dishes such as lamb, duck, or robust vegetarian dishes.

Gérard Bertrand Clos du Temple: The Pinnacle of Rosé

Clos du Temple is more than just a rosé; it is a pinnacle of winemaking excellence and innovation. Produced from a selection of the finest grapes, this wine is crafted with the utmost care, resulting in a luxurious and complex profile. It’s perfect for those special moments that call for something extraordinary.

Tasting Notes: Elegant and complex with notes of peach, pears, mirabelles, and expressive citrus flavors. The wine ends with vivid and clean notes of acidity, offering a full round taste with a long lingering finish, lemon zest with very well integrated oak.

Pairing Suggestions: Pairs exquisitely with fine seafood, light appetizers, grilled chicken, or enjoyed on its own as a celebration of life.

 Gérard Bertrand’s vineyards are nestled in the diverse terroirs of the Languedoc-Roussillon region, a cradle of winemaking that boasts a unique climate and rich soils. This region, with its Mediterranean influences, provides the perfect environment for cultivating a wide variety of grapes, allowing for the creation of wines that are both diverse and harmonious.

 Gérard Bertrand’s vision extends beyond winemaking; it is about crafting a sustainable future. His commitment to biodynamic farming and eco-friendly practices ensures that the legacy of quality and care will continue for generations to come. By prioritizing the health of the soil, the vines, and the broader environment, Gérard Bertrand is leading the way in responsible and innovative winemaking.

 Gérard Bertrand’s wines are more than just beverages; they are an invitation to celebrate life’s beautiful moments. From the lively Villa Soleilla to the majestic Château l’Hospitalet Grand Vin, the meditative Clos d’Ora, and the exquisite Clos du Temple, each bottle tells a story of passion, nature, and artistry. As you enjoy these wines, you become a part of this rich tradition, sharing in the joy and harmony that Gérard Bertrand so eloquently captures in every glass.

I was glad to meet at the airport a bigger team, especially since one of the team members was my old friend, Lorena Deaconu. In addition to last year’s colleagues, Horia Hasnaş, Valentin Ceafalău, Cătălin Păduraru, Cosmin Popescu, we were joined this year by Prof. Valeriu Cotea, Sergiu Nedelea and Otilia Chiriţă. A great group, full of enthusiasm.

Together with my Moldavian colleagues (five highly professional Moldavians and connoisseurs), we formed an even more impressive team. For us, Greater Romania is accomplished and works very well. Wine is a great connector, with a history older than any territorial maps and the vagaries of time.

More than 9,000 samples were judged by 61 committees, five more than last year in Plovdiv. Can you realize just how many bottles there were? 36,000 bottles in total to be registered and ordered and divided into series for each commission. It’s an impressive workload and I can tell you from experience that even for 150 samples it takes a lot of time. You can imagine what it’s like for 9000!

I judged wines from Spain, France, Italy and Portugal.

We had a series of champagne, yes, actual champagne, not sparkling wine, from 2008 to 2002. We started with the freshest, of course. Some had already oxidized and had little pearling, others were still excellent. A good bonus lesson.

Red wines dominated clearly, a consequence of consumption trends. I had to judge two wine series of Bordeaux. The unbarreld ones received better grades than the ones barreled in oak. I gave good grades to the Spanish wines in Castilla to Mancha and to those in Portugal, which did not differ greatly from those I saw in Berlin in winter. They were fruity, full and complex from Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca or Alicante Bouschet.

Ours was a quiet and balanced committee. Although we did not talk very much to each other, there was little difference between our grades for most of the time. We very rarely diverged. Of course, our colleague from Spain clearly preferred wines with intensive wood notes, as they all do in Spain. All in all… it was a tour de force that involved a great deal of concentration. When each producer sends the best wine from his wine cellar to the competition, it all becomes and even greater responsibility and every wine must be carefully analyzed.

The surprise came on the last day, when the place of next year’s edition was announced, a revelation that everybody was waiting for. Well … we are going to China, all the way to Haidian, a small neighborhood of nearly 4 million people in Beijing. This is the first time this contest leaves Europe. Reasons are simple to understand. China has become the second largest wine producer in the world and has every chance to soon reach first place. Can you imagine?! Wine consumption rose to 1.4 liters / capita! I talked to colleagues who participated in tastings of Chinese wine and confessed they were surprisingly good.

The three days of the competition ended with a wonderful festive evening, organized by our hosts, with various events. The funniest one was when some of our colleagues “danced” Kamate, Kamate kaora, kaora, just like in rugby, but this time with lyrics with a wine theme, of course. It was due to the association between wine production and rugby: regardless of the weather, no matter the season, you must be well trained and prepared.

It did not matter that the bus to the airport left at 3 am and we got home a little tired. There were a few days lived intensely, a wonderful wine adventure, which I enjoyed with great pleasure. Until next time!

I called Adi, my good friend and travel expert and told him I wanted to go to Strasbourg. So far so good. I found out that I have a lot to discover. The stories about the wine, culture and people enticed me. The only downside, no direct flights. The closest airport is Stuttgart, but the suggested flying days did not match the time of the contest.

Okay, let’s go to Munich, then. I choose this option and decided to take the train to Strasbourg. After my trip to Argentina, this seemed just around the corner. What could go wrong? Inexpensive roaming, possibly a Wi-Fi connection, unlimited possibilities of communication. Before I left I saw that I was taking a 3 to 4 hour train ride to Strasbourg and the ticket prices started at 80 €. I could not buy it online because DB (Deutsche Bahn) does not accept cards from Romania. I was surprised at the airport to see I had to pay almost 100 €. Well, fine passions cost money, I told to myself.

The contest was wonderful. And so were the people I met there, old and new acquaintances. Beautiful, lovely people just like everyone else in the wine business, including myself .Wine never appeals to people with bad vibes.

Insider’s view. When you sit on a judging committee, as we did, you practically have six people sitting together around a table. A particular connection is created just because you are judging the same wine. It’s fascinating. You can feel it. The fact that you share a wine with someone brings you closer. ☺ I am thinking this is why we have this saying in Romania, that one must drink a glass of wine before we can address each other by our given name.

I was fortunate (the people, again!) that the president of my judging committee, was a Romanian born Transylvanian Saxon from Sibiu, Prof. Dr. Georg Binder. Our similar training background was an unexpected connection. I have to thank him for the opportunity to be invited to so many international competitions. Ours really was an international committee. Alongside the OIV observer, Vicepresident Jan Yuban, we also benefited from the expertise of Yegas Naidoo, an extraordinary and exotic South African connoisseur and that of Joszef Kosárka from Hungary, the author of some wonderful articles about our Black Feteasca for Latin American publications. Daniel Hechter, another colleague from Alsace, France, gave us the opportunity to learn about these wines.

And now that we got to the wine … This was a contest exclusively for white wines. Christine proposed that for this year’s edition that a trophy be granted for the best-graded wine in the contest from among the Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Sylvaner and cuvee. Participation in such a competition requires an intensive training, in addition to a good knowledge of the different varieties of wines appearing in each series. Alsace is the region where aged white wines are drunk. White wine should not be served when still fresh. Quite the opposite.

I knew that the Riesling has the potential for ageing, and that wines from the Rhine Valley are very elaborate. I have often experienced them while travelling to Germany as a distributor for several of the suppliers of filtering and oenological materials in the region. But for the first time I had the opportunity to evaluate them comparatively. This is more important and more telling. The expected oil flavours were not necessarily found in the older one from Alsace. Instead we found them in a gold-awarded Riesling from Kazakhstan. My colleagues were joking about the flavour being taken from the rich underground deposits ☺.This contest changed my way of seeing aged white wines and taught me to evaluate wines with a sugar remainder. Imagine having a series of Gewurztraminer Grand Cru. Top of the Top! In a nutshell, this was a great experience!

We also had the chance to go to Dambach La Ville, a grand cru zone not far from Strasbourg where we tasted the first wine that won this contest. And it’s still very good ! We matched the wines with the food…meaning macarons and gougelhupf (a kind of Alsatian salty or sweet pancakes). We enjoyed Alsatian traditions and the fairytale places from the stories of the brothers Grimm. If you are thinking of taking a romantic trip, I promise Alsace is a top destination.

All would have been perfect if I had not almost lost my plane ☺. I thought I had all the time in the world as my flight left Munich at 19:50. I checked the trains to Munich with the reception. I had a 10:46 option with no seats and a later one at 12:46. My plan was to visit the city earlier in the morning and then leave. But first I went to buy my train ticket, a mere 120 €. Looks like it’s harder return than to leave. Just like life, right?

With the ticket bought I was more relaxed and enjoyed a tour of the city. But my later choice of a train to Munich had a 70 minutes delay because of an accident on the rail. It was when I started to worry. From the station to the airport there was still an hour’s train ride. I could already see myself cutting all the lines. Once more, I have to say that the DB does not accept payment with foreign cards, so I lost extra time getting cash out for the second train to the airport. I caught the S-bahn heading to Freising/Flughafen, wondering if I was on the right cart. I was already panicking with 1,5 h to go. The train was going to divide carts according to airlines. I assumed Tarom was part of Start Alliance and got off when I heard the alliance name being called. I was so wrong. I ran from one terminal to another… It sounds funny, but it wasn’t.

With a lot of luck, again, I didn’t miss my flight. I found an empty boarding line and a never before seen empty Munich airport.

I even had the extra time to enjoy a Pinot Grigio while waiting to board.

All is well that ends well… and with a wine!

Cheers!

Why is it important for a wine maker to enter such a competition?

Annually, over 20 000 wines from all over the world are evaluated in contests organized under the larger umbrella of the International Organization of Wine and Vine (OIV) and Vinofed. I knew that Romanian winemakers had also entered the contest and were among the winners. In Berlin, the DiVin magazine was launched, reuniting all the award winning wines in the contest. I was glad to see them mentioned in DiVin. This is a first step in a PR campaign organized by Germany who wants to keep clients informed. The magazine will be published every three months and distributed free of charge in 70000 copies throughout HoReCa in Germany. Thus, consumers are made aware of the award winning wines. This is makes it important for Romanian producers to participate in such a competition. But Romanian wines should also be available for the German market, ready to be purchased. For those who have not done either, I strongly recommend you to do so. Our country image abroad would have much to gain.

Secondly, as a juror during the four days of the contest, you have the opportunity to see three or four series of wine per day selected by the organizers. You can easily paint yourself a picture of the wines in question. For example, we had a series of Rhineland Riesling 2016. It was clearly a rainy year with thin wines and not many flavors. Correct, but without aging potential. A series of Pinot Blanc, a variety I did not know much about as we do not cultivate it in Romania, but with interesting pear and citrus flavors, slightly aromatic to other Pinot (Gris). I also made close acquaintance with the Portuguese rosé and red wines on the 3rd day, when all three series had been from Portugal. If the rosé wines were not really well graded, being a little phenolic and without the acidity you would expect, the heat made the red ones extraordinary. We gave a lot of gold and silver medals.

And something about the local varieties…. Portugal is the country that preserved its local varieties. International varieties exist more in blends with local ones and are used mostly to empower them. Alicante Bousquet, Touriga Nacional, Castelao, Tinta Ruiz or Touriga Franca are some of the varieties in the cups to which I found deserving of a gold medal. 2016 and 2015 harvests. Amazing to see 2016 red wines ready to be consumed in January next year. A trip to Portugal is definitely worth it!

We tasted many red wines, which gives us some clues about consumer orientation. Red, fresh, fruity wines. Round and full bodied, ready to be drunk shortly. For the first time since I participate in international competitions, I was offered Fetească Neagră. Some good, even very good, others hmm… with defects. You might hint that I rated them as high as I good without falling into extremes. (at an international competition according to the OIV, the final grade is the arithmetic average after the extremes are eliminated.) It gave me the opportunity to talk to colleagues about the variety and characteristics.

The best wines I remember now are Negro Amaro and Nero d’Avola. I gave them the highest grades. Anyway, I promised my colleagues that for this Nero d’Avola I’ll go to Sicily once again… even at the risk of having my purse and shoes stolen again as friends know it happened last time. But this is another story for another time.